The Concept of Textile Merchandising

 Merchandising in textile is not synonymous with merchandising being practiced in consumer product companies. It is much broader in its scope, activities and responsibilities.

Retail Merchandise:

The term merchandising in retailing refers to the total process of stock planning, management and control. The merchandising needs a good numeric skill and ability to make trends, relationships and co-relationship within regular sales and stock. The responsibilities of merchandiser are changes from company to company, according to structure they adopt. The traditional merchandising role is integrated with the buying, which merchandising team has responsible for both the planning and stock allocation. The structure of traditional is shown in figure.

Now a day’s many retailer change the responsibilities of merchandising according to the company, some remove the distribution role and this responsibility is then given to the distribution team separately. By this the retailer can save the cost, more importantly the company can control of the entire process. We have seen many business retailers who applied different parameters to stock management can easily lose on their stock.

Textile Mills and Buying House: 

• Merchandising can be termed as heart of making a product fail or pass.
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• Merchandising can be a difference between winning or losing a project/customer. 
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• Merchandising means finding new customers and markets. 
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• Merchandising means retaining the customers and extracting more orders from them.
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• Merchandising means making the customers delighted/satisfied on one hand and brining profits for the company on other. 
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• Merchandising means making communication bridge between the company and its customers. 
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• Merchandising means completion of project/order placed by the buyer as per its requirements in right time, quality and quantity.

Decoding Washing Labels: What Laundry Symbols on Clothes Really Mean?

 This group of UK washing symbols helps you decide if your clothing is safe to wash in your washing machine, and which setting, and what temperature you should use.

It is generally depicted as a bucket filled with water (except for the ‘Do not wring’ symbol). If the garment is machine washable, then you’ll either see dots or numbers inside the bucket symbol, representing the recommended maximum temperature: one dot means 30 °C (meaning that you have to wash your clothing in cold water), two dots 40 °C (warm water), and four dots 60 °C. In case you see one line drawn underneath the bucket, it means that your piece of clothing should be washed on a synthetic cycle, while two lines represent the gentle or wool wash cycle. If you find the hand wash symbol on your garment’s fabric care label, wash the item by hand at 40 °C or lower, or use your washing machine’s hand wash program.

Bleaching symbols on washing labels

Before you turn to your bottle of bleach to make your whites shine like they used to, it’s worth taking a look at your garment’s fabric care label to see if the clothing can handle bleaching agents.

Drying guidelines on clothing labels

In addition to washing and ironing, the laundry process also includes drying. To prevent your garment from shrinking or becoming misshapen when drying, you can find a number of helpful symbols on the fabric care label, informing you of the most surefire way to dry your clothes without causing any damage to the fabric.

A square with a circle inside means that the item can be safely tumble dried, while the number of dots inside the tumble dry symbol indicates what temperature setting to use: one dot stands for low heat, two dots for medium, and three for high heat setting. No dot means that you can tumble dry your clothes on any heat. If you see a bar below the dryer symbol, then use the ‘Permanent Press’ setting, while two bars mean that you have to use the ‘Delicate’ setting. If the symbol is crossed over, do not tumble dry your garment, but let it dry naturally instead. A square with three vertical lines inside represents drip drying, a single horizontal line in the middle indicates flat drying, and a drooping line means hang to dry.

Ironing symbols on fabric labels

Ironing symbols depict an iron with dots inside representing the maximum temperature that you should use to iron the garment.

Dry cleaning symbols on fabric labels

Some garments are better off being handled by a professional: that’s when dry cleaning comes into the picture. The below symbols are intended to help you decide if your piece of clothing should be dry cleaned, and to tell the dry-cleaner what solvent to use.

Additional dry cleaning instructions

When dealing with your most delicate pieces of clothing, your dry-cleaner appreciates every help they get.
That’s why fabric manufacturers include many dry cleaning symbols on clothing labels, represented by the combination of a circle and a straight line.

Laundry Label Guide: Understand Washing Symbols on Clothing Tags
What Do Washing Symbols Mean? A Complete Guide to Clothing Care Labels
How to Read Washing Labels: Laundry Symbols Explained for Better Garment Care
Clothing Care Symbols Explained: Your Guide to Washing Label Icons

Types of Garments Accessories & List of Accessories

Basically in the garments three types of accessories we are using. We are elaborating about garments accessories in details for easy understanding.    

1. Basic accessories;
2. Decorative Accessories;
3. Finishing Accessories;

Basic accessories:

1. Thread
   
2. Zipper
   
3. Interlining
   
4. Button for example: Snap button, Plastic button, .Metal button.
5. Label: Main label , Size Label, Wash care label
6. Motif: Leather, Plastic, Batch Metal
7. Pocketing fabric
8. Lining
9. Velcro
10. Elastic
11. Cord
12. Ribbon
13. Toggles
14. Rivet
15. Collar bone.

Decorative Accessories:

1. Elastic tape
2. Buttonhole tape
3. Piping
4. Moiré ribbon
5. Seaming tape
6. Welted tape
7. Ribbed tape
8. Velvet ribbon
9. Bias binding
10. Stamped tape
11. Taffeta ribbon
12. Galloon
13. Fringes
14. Cords
15. Tassels
16. Rosettes
17. Soutache
18. Pompons

Finishing Accessories:

1. Hang tag
2. Price tag
3. Plastic/ poly bag
4. Tissue paper
5. Carton
6. Scotch tape
7. PP belt
8. Tag pin
9. Plastic clip
10. Stiker
11. Butterfly
12. Collar insert
13. Back board
14. Necks insert 

Logistics and outsourcing in the supply chain

 CPFR Models 

Quick response in logistics and SCM ensures product innovation in the market: the logistics supplier can deliver the vision of designers and buyers, reduce and minimize disturbances in the chain and coordinate and consolidate goods, which is especially important when launching new products and ranges. Data collection and the appropriate and relevant technology must be in place for this to work properly. One such example is a Collaborative Planning Forecasting and Replenishment (CPFR) model of supply. CPFR is ‘a business practice which reduces inventory costs whilst improving product availability across the chain. Trading partners share forecast and results data over the Internet. CPFR data analyses data and alerts planners and merchandisers at each company to exceptional situations that may affect delivery or sales performance’ (Hines, 2005). Trading partners collaborate to resolve these exceptions in the chain in order to maintain stock and availability. CPFR models have been replicated and adapted for use by many large, international fashion retailers in order to make suppliers responsible for stock management. Good stock management is crucial to success in the fashion industry.

Future of technology 

Some large, international retailers are investing in new technological models of supply, including retail exchanges and e-tail logistics, such as the global net exchange (GNX) and the worldwide retail exchange (WWRE) developed by Walmart. Technology helps fashion retailers with sales information that can be transferred and acted upon quickly. These include the following: EDI (electronic data information) packages for sharing data between supply chain partners; EPOS – electronic point-of sale data collection from stores; and SBO, which is sales-based ordering technology (orders placed to replenish sold stock). Other technology used in SCM includes electronic tagging radio frequency identification tags. Walmart piloted a study in the USA and UK fashion retailer Marks & Spencer has trialed its use on high-value items such as suits and leather jackets. The tags can be used to achieve good visibility in the chain; retailers such as Benetton, Gap and Esprit use the tags to track stock movement in the supply chain. They can be used during transportation and warehousing so logistics teams can identify stock, size and color without unpacking boxes and by scanning stock that is packaged. It cannot be emphasized enough that good relationships and outsourcing are fundamental to the future success of SCM in the fashion business and improvements in technology may be used to enhance these relationships. The focus is on fashion retailers in the future to provide better value and to create greater responsiveness via partnerships.

ELECTRONIC TAGGING 

 UK retailer Marks & Spencer has trialed the use of electronic tagging radio frequency identification tags on high-value items such as suits and leather jackets.

Garment specifications: sampling

Performance testing

All products developed must pass performance testing requirements. It is usually the responsibility of the supplier to ensure that all products meet, or exceed, the standards required by the retailer. Before finalizing or signing an agreement, it is important that suppliers understand and agree the quality-standard requirements of the retailer. It is normal practice to have both fabric and garments tested before the product is delivered; typically, the testing is done at a third-party testing facility such as Intertek or ITS. At times, the buyers and design team will designate the testing lab. Sometimes the retailer (or buyer) will submit the garments for testing; however, often the buyer will require that the supplier submits the fabric and garments directly to the testing laboratory and then provide them with copies of the test results. Final bulk testing is completed before bulk production of garments commences. Accurate records must be kept by the manufacturer and the retailer in case of any faults or customer complaints. Many retailers also undertake surprise testing on garments after they arrive into the stores. This technique is used to discourage suppliers from submitting garments in bulk that do not match up to the quality approved for 

final production.

‘Successful fashion design in commercial terms is based upon providing what customers want frequently before they realize it. In fashion retailing successful design equals sales. If a garment design sells well, the basic shape will be “milked” and reworked in a variety of fabrics and colors and prints.’

Specialist fabrics 

Some garments will require additional testing, such as items that claim to be flame retardant, water resistant, anti-bacterial and so on. So-called ‘smart’ fabrics are used for sport and other performance activities, which need to be fit for purpose; Teflon-coated, breathable and water-repellent fabrics require rigorous testing before use. Even simple products, such as a T-shirt jersey, for example, require certain dye stuffs to withstand washing and to limit the shrinkage of fabric. Children’s apparel requires additional product safety testing.

GARMENT SAMPLING 

By the time it reaches the mass production stage, each garment style will have been technically engineered in order to be as cost-effective and aesthetically pleasing as possible, reflecting the original model and ideas of the designer.

 

Definition of Fabric Defects

Slack End - The result of a loose or broken end puckering as it is gradually woven into a fabric.

Crease Line - A mark left in a fabric a crease has been removed. It may be caused by mechanical damage to the fibers at the fold, by variation in treatment due to the construction along the fold or by disturbance of the fabric structure.

Coarse Pick - A pick of filling whose diameter is noticeably greater than that normal to the fabric.

Knot - A place where two ends of yarn have been tied together.

Color Fly - Fibers of a different color appearing in a yarn or fabric as contamination.

End Out - A line, running warp-way through part or all of piece, caused by the absence of a warp thread.

Hang Thread - A thread left hanging on the face of a fabric. The most common cause is the failure of a weaver to clip the excess yarn after repairing a broken end and/or the cloth inspector’s failure to remove the excess yarn.

Double Pick - Two picks in a single shed where only one is called for by the design of the fabric.

Burl Mark - A distortion resulting from some Superfluous material such as a thick slub, waste or wild yarn being removed with a burling tool.

Broken End - Where a warp yarn has ruptured and been repaired often characterized by the broken and being woven into the fabric.

Miss pick - Where the weave design is broken by the absence of a pick of filling.

Coarse End - An end whose diameter is noticeably greater than that normal to the fabric.

Jerk In - An extra piece of filling yarn jerked by the shuttle into the fabric along with a regular pick of filling. On conventional looms, they generally are confined to the battery side, the most common cause being the failure of the thread-holding mechanism to hold the filling from the out-going bobbin long enough for the temple thread cutter to cut the yarn after a filling.

Thick Place - A place across the width containing more picks or heavier filling than that normal to the fabric.

Thin Place - A place across the width containing less picks or lighter filling than that normal to the fabric.

Apparel Merchandiser Should Know

If you want to select your career as a merchandiser, at first you should know about what is merchandising? Who is a Merchandiser? How to become a apparel merchandiser? Here you will get all of the techniques to become a successful garment merchandiser. Let’s read and prepare you for achieving your dream career.

Merchandising: 
Merchandising is the presentation of new products. All aspects of a product, including design, quality, and consumer demand must be considered.

Requirements to be a Good Merchandiser in the Apparel Industry or Buying House:
Everyone have a dream to be a good merchandiser, anywhere in the apparel industry or buying house. From the student life they are try to know information about how to prepare yourself to be a successful merchandiser?

Anybody can acquire good knowledge in apparel merchandising is becoming an asset for the garment sector and his limit of working experiences is expending all over the world. And within a short time his monthly remuneration will be surpassed his expectation.

Do you want to become a successful merchandiser? Then you should maintain some basic requirements to prepare yourself. Here I will mention the different ways to become a good merchandiser in buying house or garments industry…….

1. If you want to become a good merchandiser then educational background must be needed. Related course must be considered.

2. For getting this dream job, you should have good knowledge in both English written and spoken.

3. Knowledge about Computer literacy, Know the e-mail writing techniques and internet browsing.

4. Excellent behaviors, should be smart, strong personality and intelligent.

5. Know all fibers like:

• Natural fibers
• Animal fibers
• Mineral fibers
• Synthetic fibers

6. Know all types of woven and knitted fabrics weaving / knitting patterns.

• Woven fabrics: The weaving patterns are Poplin, Oxford, Twill, Dobby, Jacquard, Corduroy, Checks, and Plaids.
• Knitted fabrics: The knitting patterns are Single jersey, Rib, Interlock Pique, Fleece, Terry, Variable ribs, Drop needle etc.

7. Know all types of printing. These are:

• All-over printing
• Screen print
• Reactive print
• Print with plastisol dye stuffs
• Discharge print
• Pigment print
• Flock print
• Foil print
• Lurex print
• Embossed print
• Heat transfer print
• Hi-density print
• Dip-dye print

8. Should know the difference between all types of embroideries.

• Plain embroidery with one color
• Plain embroidery with multi color
• Embroidery with lurex thread
• Embroidery on printing
• Embroidery with application
• Embroidery with application over application
• Embroidery with laser cut design
• Embroidery with sequins setting

9. Should know all samples and their implication. Types of samples are:

• Proto sample
• Fit sample
• Size set sample
• Counter sample
• Sealed/Red/Yellow label sample
• Pre- production sample
• Lab test sample
• Flammability test sample
• Photo shoot sample
• Salesman sample
• Top over production sample
• Shipment sample

10. Know all Lab test requirements:

• Shrinkage/ Dimensional stability test
• Pealing test
• Crocking / rubbing test (Dry/wet)
• Perspiration test
• Color fastness test to light
• Cross staining test
• Washing fastness test
• Saliva test (for children’s wear)
• Tensile test
• Test of brushing of fabric
• Test of presence of AZO, PVC, Formaldehyde or any other carsegonic substance in the garments.

11. Keep record of all yarn, fabric, and garments accessories supplier.

12. Good knowledge of Exporting and Importing countries

13. Knowledge on duty rates and customs regulations

14. Know all sea and freight forwarder.

15. Know all feeder and mother vessel schedule.

16. Keep updated records of container charges (20 feet, 40 feet, 40 feet high cube, 45 feet high cube)

17. Keep records of all garment trimmings and accessories like as Embroidery, Hanger, Labels, Laces, Elastic, Poly, Cartons and Garments manufacturing etc.

18. Keep records of all Spinning mills, Knitting mills, Dyeing factories with their M/C and production capacity.

19. Acquire good knowledge on consumption and costing.

20. Be sincere about packing list, assortment, carton and buyer instructions.

21. Take all updated news like inputs- outputs, daily garments production records from the factory manager.

22. Good knowledge about usual Raw materials, Apparel Inspection System and Quality Management System.

23. Clear conception of the usual potential Quality problem in Apparel merchandising.

24. Know all technical or commercial terms for accurate and efficient communication.

25. Should know about the Quota system, Free-trade, shipping and Banking documentation and regulations.

26. Know all buyers compliance and various standards.

27. Keep knowledge about order procedures of international buyers

28. Keep commitment with Buyers and Suppliers.

29. Make a habit of replying all mails without wasting any time.

30. Be sincere to your job and duties.

31. Never do anything on assumption always get clarification and keep written records with date and time.

32. Always show positive attitude to resolve all problem.

33. Always check all booking of fabrics and accessories before and after sending; if possible get it checked by third person.

34. Excellent power of motivation to improve public relations.

For become a successful merchandiser, you should follow and try to maintain above all these points or requirements. These requirements are very essential for the job preparation. Also needed some basic knowledge and skills for a garment merchandiser. These requirements, basic knowledge and skills will be helpful to get Merchandising career easily.