How to Measure Sewing Button Size and Quantity in Garments Factory

In garments factory, sewing button size is calculated by three units e.g. in mm (millimeter), inch and ligne in accordance with buyer's instructions.

For finding out Button Size in mm and inch, we need measure the dia of button with measurement tape. To find out Button Size in ligne, we need divide button's mm dia by 0.635.

Button's Dia

Button size calculation : 
1 inches = 40 ligne = 2.54 cm, 

1 ligne = 0.635 mm

Now find out ligne of a button with 10mm Dia?

Answer: 10 ÷ 0.635 = 15.75 ligne or 16 L (L refers to ligne or ligner) 

(Formula: button dia in mm ÷ 0.635= button ligne)

Sewing Buttons

Button quantity calculation:

12 pcs = 1 dozen, 

12 dozen = 1 gross, 

12 gross = 1 GG 

1 GG = 1728 pcs (GG means Great Gross)

Suppose: 
A shirt has 6 buttons, total order quantity 3456 pcs, find out total button quantity for the order.

Answer: 6 × 3456 ÷ 1728 = 12 GG. 

(Formula: number of buttons per product × order quantity ÷ 1728)

(1 GG = 1728 pcs)

Note: Extra quantity (minimum 3%) is added while counting buttons for an order to save garments from risk in case of shortage due to defective & damaged.

Poly Bags Consumption & Costing in Apparel Industries

Most used poly bags in garments industries are PP (polypropylene) poly bags, PE (polyethylene) & LDPE (low density polyethylene), HDPE (high density polyethylene) etc. Basically there’re three different ways to measure poly bags thickness. These are:

(1) Mil (1 mil = 1/1000 of an inch)

(2) Microns (1 microns = 1/1000 of a mm)

(3) Gauge (1 gauge = 1/100000 of an inch)

Conversion, 1 mil = 25 microns = 100 gauge.

Note: Gauge is the most used system of counting poly bags’ thickness worldwide.

Poly Bag

A poly bags having length 30 inches, flap 3 inches, width 16 inches, poly thickness 150 gauge. Now find out weight of 1000 pcs poly bags? Answer: {(30 + 1.5) x 16 x 150 / 3300} = 22.91 KGs for 1000 pcs 

Formula: KGs needed for 1000 pcs poly bags = {(length + half flap) X width X gauge / 3300}

Now, if we want to find out weight of 1 pcs poly bag, then we need divide the outcome with 1000. 

Answer: 22.91 / 1000 = 0.023 KGs. (1 pcs poly bag weight)

Note: You see, I count flap measurement in half (1.5 inches) during calculation because flap is single layer. And length, width of a poly bag is double layer.

Now the question is 1 lbs. polymer price is 0.40 USD, find out cost of 22.91 KGs polymer?Answer: 22.91 x 2.2 x 0.40 = 20.16 USD. (1 KG = 2.2 lbs.) 

A poly bags having length 30 inches, flap 3 inches, width 16 inches, poly thickness 150 gauge. 1 lbs. polymer price is BDT 40. Now find out cost of 1 pcs poly bag? Answer: {(30 + 1.5) x 16 x 150 / 3300 / 1000 x 2.2 x 40} = 2.01 BDT. (Bangladeshi Taka). 

An Overview of Poly Bag Used in Apparel Industry

In the standard format for describing a bag:

• the width of the bag is always taken to be the side that opens, so this is normally, but not necessarily, the shorter side.
• the width of the bag is given before the length.
• the thickness of the bag is given last and is usually expressed in 'gauge' (100 gauge = 1/1000 of an inch).
• hence the size of a bag is given as: Width (inches) x Length (inches) x Thickness (Gauge).

Flat Bags

Ziplock Bags

For example: if a bag is said to be 4" x 6" x 150 gauge then the bag is 4" wide by 6" long with 150 gauge thickness and the bag will open on the 4" width.

How thick is thick?

100 gauge - a 1/1000 of an inch.

120 gauge - 'light duty' - good for protective covering.

250 gauge - 'medium duty' - good for holding light materials.

500 gauge - 'heavy duty' - where strength is required.

Metric and Imperial - a complication!

Most measurements are given in imperial (inches and gauge) but some of us prefer to use metric scales and the conversions are as follows:

1" = 25.4 mm

400 gauge = 100 micron

For example: a 4"x 6" x 150 gauge bag is the same as a 102mm x 152mm x 37.5 micron bag.

Gussets - a complication!

Some bags have a gusset at the sides to help the bag open out more and enable a greater volume of items to be put in - a good example is a refuse sack. Others have a gusset at the bottom to enable a wide product to fit in - a good example is a carrier bag.

Gussted Bags

• A side gusset is expressed as a bag being x" wide opening to y" wide. For example: if a refuse sack is 16 x 25" x 39" this means it is 16" wide opening to 25" wide when the gusset is opened, with a bag length of 39"
• A bottom gusset is expressed as + x". For example: if a carrier bag is 15" x 18" + 3" then the carrier is 15" wide by 18" long with a bottom gusset of 3".

D - Total depth

L - Length

W - Width

We very much hope this helps but if you require any help or have any questions please call 01749373738 and talk to one of our experts!

How to Calculate Minute Cost of Sewing Line in Garments Industry?

Method for Calculating Cost Per Minute of Sewing Line in Garments Industry:

An industrial engineer can easily calculate cost per minute of sewing line in apparel industry by following the two different formulas. Those are in the below:

1. Cost per minute of sewing line,

2. Cost per minute of sewing line,

Now, two examples are enough to clear all the confusions from the above discussion.

Example for the formula number-01:

Suppose, in Nishat garments ltd. total salary of sewing line for one day is 10000taka, no. of manpower’s for 20 machines is 30 and line efficiency is 50%, then calculate cost per minute in 8 working hours of each sewing line for that garments.

Solution:

Here,

Total salary of sewing line for one day = 10000 taka,
Total no. of manpower’s = 30,
Total working hours = 8,
Line efficiency= 50% = 0.5

Now,

Cost per minute of sewing line,

= 1.39 taka

So, cost per minute for each sewing line of nishat garments is 1.39 taka.

Example for the formula number-02:

Suppose, in Abonty fashion ltd. actual salary per day of all the operators and helpers is 15000, total garments produced per day is 400, where standard allowed minutes (SAM) for the garments is 20. Then calculate cost per minute of each sewing line for that garments.

Solution:

Here,

Actual salary per day of all the operators and helpers = 15000,
Total no. of garments produced = 400,
Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM) for the garments = 20

Now,

Cost per minute of sewings line,

= 1.875 taka

So, Cost per minute of sewing line is 1.875 taka.

How to Calculate Line efficiency of Garment Production

Calculation Method for Line Efficiency of a Garment Production:

An industrial engineer has to confirm the following items before starting the calculation method for line efficiency of a garment production:

1. Production output from the line (Pcs),
2. Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for garments,
3. Total number of operators in the line,
4. Total working hours.

Now, by applying all the above items in the below formula, an industrial engineer can easily estimate the line efficiency of a garment production.

Line Efficiency (%),

Now, one example is enough to remove all the confusions from the above discussion.

Example:

In Zara Fashion Ltd. a garment production line produced 300pcs Sweet shirt garments in 45 Standard allowed minutes (SAM) by using 40 operators, where working hours was 8.

Now, estimate the lines efficiency for the mentioned garment production.

Solution:

Here,
Production output from the line- 300pcs
Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for Sweet shirt garments – 45
Total number of operators in the line – 40
Total working hours – 8hrs

Now, by using the following formula, industrial engineer can estimate easily the line’s efficiency of the mentioned garment production.

Line Efficiency (%),

= 70.3%

So, lines efficiency of the mentioned sweet shirt garments production stands at 70.3%

How to Calculate Machine Capacity in Garments Industry?

Machine (hr) Capacity:

Machine (hr) capacity of a garment factory is totally related with number of sewing lines, sewing machines and working hours per day. Its directly proportional to the multiple result of those i.e. number of sewing line, sewing machine and working hours per day.

Sewing machine capacity

Machine Capacity Calculation in Garments Industry:

For calculating machine (hr) capacity in garments industry, we have needed the following information:

1. Sewing line in that factory,
2. Machines in each sewing line,
3. Working hours per day.

Now, by using the below formula, we can easily calculate the machine (hr) capacity in apparel industry.

Machine capacity,

= No. of sewing line in that factory × No. of machines in each sewing line × Working hours per day

Example:

Suppose, Lanny Fashions Ltd. has 10 sewing lines where each sewing line has 20 machines and working hours per day for the factory is 8, then calculate the machine capacity for that factory.

Solution:

Here,

No. of sewing line in that factory= 10
No. of machines in each sewing line= 20
Working hours per day= 8

So,

Machine capacity,

= No. of sewing line in that factory × No. of machines in each sewing line × Working hours per day= 10 × 20 × 8
= 1600hrs.

So, Machine (hr) capacity for the above garments factory is 1600 hrs.

How to Calculate Production Capacity of a Garment Factory?

Introduction:

Production capacity estimation for a garment factory is an important issue in ready made garments sector. It plays an important role to the buyer for selecting right vendor for their orders. How much a garment factory can produce their items per day has estimated here. As its importance in garments manufacturing sector, today I will present here the production capacity estimation method for a garment factory.

Production Capacity:

Production capacity of a garment factory is totally related with machine (hr) capacity, line efficiency of that factory and standard allowed minute (SAM) of produced item. For achieving accurate production capacity of a garment factory, an industrial engineer should confirm accurate cutting room capacity, finishing room capacity and washing capacity also.

Production in garment factory

Production Capacity Calculation Method of a Garment Factory:

For calculating production capacity of a garment factory, an industrial engineer should confirm the below information:

1. Machine (hr) capacity per day,
2. Individual product’s standard allowed minute (SAM),
3. Line efficiency of garment factory or factory efficiency.

Now, by using the following formula, an industrial engineer can easily calculate production capacity of a garment factory.

Production capacity (Pcs),

Example:

Suppose, Noman Fashion Ltd. has 10 sewing lines, each sewing line has 20 machines. They have to produce basic knitted polo shirt items at 8hrs working day, (where machine-hr capacity is 1600hrs and line efficiency is 60%).

So, find out the production capacity of that factory.

Solution:

Here,

Machine (hr) capacity per day= 1600hrs,

Line efficiency of garment factory= 60%,

Standard allowed minute (SAM) for knitted polo shirt= 20

So,

Production capacity (Pcs),

= 2880pcs

So, garments production capacity of the above factory is 2880 pcs per day.

Packing List

What is Packing List in Import Export Business?

Packing list is one of the most important documents for both apparel merchandising and commercial department of an apparel manufacturing industry. Packing section is the part of finishing section of ready made apparel industry. Normally, packing section packs the goods as per ratio or assortment. In the later, apparel inspector inspects the apparel product according to apparel packing list.

To prepare final packing lists, commercial department of an apparel industry has needed the final packing list for forwarding agents and customs department. From here, they calculate the total shipping volume and weight to confirm the required shipping cargo. As its importance, both apparel merchandiser and commercial personnel should aware about it to reduce cost in shipping.

You may follow What Types of Documents Required for Apparel Buyer?

Types of Packing in Finishing Section:

There are so many packing types followed in apparel industry. The following are the most used among those:

1. Flat pack (Shirt, sportswear, trouser),
2. Stand up pack (90° angle),
3. Semi-stand up pack (for shirt),
4. Hanger pack (for coats, blazer, pants),
5. Half fold pack (for pant).

Types of Carton Packing in Apparel Industry:

After packing the apparel, cartooning is done according to the apparel size and color in apparel manufacturing sector.  Mostly used carton packing types have given in the below though there are various types of cartoon packing in clothing sector:

1. Solid color solid size carton packing,
2. Solid color assorted size carton packing,
3. Assorted color solid size carton packing,
4. Assorted color assorted carton packing.

It should be noted here that, carton packing may be as 12pcs, 24pcs or 36pcs per carton which is totally dependent on the buyer requirements.

Packing List Documents in Apparel Sector:

Packing list (P/L) is known as an inventory of the incoming cargo which is required for customs clearance in apparel shipment and accompanying the commercial invoice and the transport documents.

During apparel shipment, packing list generally includes the below information’s or documents:

1. Name of the exporter,
2. Name of the importer,
3. Name of the transport company,
4. Date of issue,
5. Number of the freight invoice,
6. Type of packaging (carton, box, barrel, bag, etc.),
7. Total number of packages,
8. Content of each package (Details description of the goods and number of items per package),
9. Marks and numbers,
10. Gross weight, net weight, and measurement of the packages.

Packing List Format in Apparel Industry:

An expert said that, packing lists should start with date, buyer order and style number of product, carton number. Unsorted summary also not accepted by the buyers.  Intact, some buyers may even ask for net weight and gross weight of each carton. The below format have to maintain during carton packing.

Garments Manufacturing Process Flow Chart

Garments Manufacturing:

A complete garment has to face several processes from its order receiving to shipment. During garments manufacturing, a process flow chart must be needed to complete an order easily. Also a process flow chart helps to understand a garment manufacturing method that how the raw materials are converted into the wearable garments.

Garments Manufacturing Process

Flow Chart of Garments Manufacturing Process / Technology:

A basic garment manufacturing flow chart is presented in the below:

Design
↓
Pattern Making
↓
Fit Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern Making
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Cutting Parts Sorting or Bundling
↓
Sewing
↓
Garments Inspection
↓
Garments Ironing and Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Garments Packing
↓
Cartooning
↓
Shipment

Each process of garments manufacturing flow chart is discussed in the below with the details:

1. Design:
Design is provided by the buyer. After placing an order buyer send the technical sheet and art-work of an order to the merchandiser. This process is done by both manually or by using computer.

2. Pattern Making:
By following technical sheet and art-work, pattern of each garment style should be made. It’s done by both manually and by using computerized method.

3. Fit Sample Making:
The main target of making a fit sample is to follow the details instruction about that garments style. After making it’s sent to the buyer to rectify. It’s done by manually.

4. Production Pattern Making:
For bulk production, allowance added here with net dimension. Production Pattern Making is done by both manually and by using computer.

5. Grading:
During an order confirmation, the buyer suggests about the size ratio of that order. So that order should be graded according to the buyer’s instruction. Grading is done by manually or by using computer.

6. Marker Making:
Marker is a very thin paper which contains all the parts of a particular garment. To make the cutting process easy, it’s must be needed. Marker making process can be done by both manually and by using computer.

7. Fabric Spreading:
To cut the fabric properly fabric is spread in lay form. Fabric Spreading is done by manually or by using computerized method.

8. Fabric Cutting:
Fabrics have to cut here according to marker of garments. Fabric Cutting process is done by using manual method or computerized method.

9. Cutting Parts Sorting or Bundling:
Here, cutting parts have to sort out or make bundling to send these easily into the next process. This process is done by manually.

10. Sewing:
All the parts of a garment are joined here to make a complete garment. Sewing process is done by manually.

11. Garments Inspection:
After completing sewing, inspection should be done here to make fault free garments. Garments Inspection is done by using manual method.

12. Garments Ironing and Finishing:
Here garments are treated by steam; also required finishing should be completed here. This process is done by using manual method.

13. Final Inspection:
Finally the complete garments are inspected here according to the buyer’s specification. Final Inspection is done by manual method.

14. Garments Packing:
Complete garments are packed here by using buyers instructed poly bag. Garments packing are done by using manual method.

15. Cartooning:
To minimize the damages of garments, all the garments have to cartooned by maintaining buyers instruction. This process is done by manually.

16. Shipment:
After completing all the required processes it’s finally send to the buyer.

To scan this code, you can use as QR scanner app on your phone or some camera apps.

Duties of a Sewing Machine Operator in Apparel Sector

The sewing operators accomplish the real job of apparel manufacturing. All the other people do the auxiliary works. Operators must know what they must perform and what level of performance; skill and workmanship are required from them. So, a job description in writing must be provided to the sewing machine operator. If sewing machine operator is illiterate each point of the job description must be described to him so that he takes the job seriously and can accomplish it as desired.

Sewing machine operator works in apparel industry

Job Descriptions for Apparel Production Sewer or  Sewing Machine Operator:

1. Sewing machine operator will come to the floor in time & shall clean machine, workplace etc.
2. He will check 7 ensure that his workstation is in right order.
3. He will seek necessary instruction from here supervisor regarding his job.
4. He will seek mock up sample from her supervisors so that he can understand the job.
5. He will check the mock up sample so as to understand the sewing technique & the level of quality.
6. He will check with the supervisor regarding his hourly & daily production target.
7. If he does not understand any point regarding sewing or quality, he will seek elaboration from supervisor.
8. Sewing machine operator will ensure measurements of apparel as per work order sheet or apparel specification sheet.
9. He will ensure necessary seam allowances as per instruction.
10. He will perform his job with utmost care so that no reject or defect occurs.
11. He will handle apparel parts with care so that they do not spoil or stain.
12. He will take care in handling bundles and parts in them so that they do not mix-up.
13. He must see that he accomplishes his target.
14. If there is any bottleneck, he will discuss with the supervisor & take countermeasures.
15. He will check needle from time to time to ensure that it is not blunt or broken.
16. He will take care that there is no under sewing thread tension.
17. Sewing machine operator will ensure that stitch per inch (SPI) is correct.
18. He will clean his sewing machine from time to time.
19. He will take care of his machine.
20. He will ensure that the designated machine cleans the machine, oils it, & takes care of it.
21. He will continuously check if her work is compatible with the quality & quantity desired.
22. He will discuss with the supervisor & senior operators about sewing problems or sewing defects and sewing techniques.
23. He will ensure that his machine is equipped with eye guard or needle guard or puller cover.
24. He will get trained on using firefighting equipment & how to face an accident.
25. He will use mask all the time to offset micro dust.
26. He will use hand gloves and scarf.
27. Sewing machine operator will not panic at the time of hazard or fire disaster.