Factors of Seam Abrasion Resistance

Seam Abrasion Resistance:

It is easy to determine the resistance to abrasion of a sewing thread but the abrasion resistance of that sewing thread does not behave similarly when stitches into a seam. The reasons behind it is that some factors e.g. stitch type, seam type, sewing conditions, fabric types, thread types etc. alters the sewing thread abrasion behavior.

Study on seam abrasion resistance

To determine the seam abrasion resistance, a seam abrasion machine (SAM) has been developed by J & P COAT’s research laboratory. In this machine a multi-directional abrasion action operates along the edge of the seam. The test result is expressed as number of rubs to first stitch failure. This article has shown some key factors which are directly affected on seam abrasion resistance.

Factors Affecting on Seam Abrasion Resistance:

Abrasion resistance of a seam varies depending on some factors which are pointed out in the below:

1. Type of threads,
2. Stitch balance,
3. Seam tightness,
4. Fabric type.

All the above four factors have explained in the following:

1. Type of threads:

It has been clearly established that synthetic threads are far superior to the natural threads in terms of abrasion resistance but it is not clear whether these results would also apply in case of seams.

2. Stitch balance:

Normally in a two thread chain stitch seam (type-401), the ratio of the needle thread to looper threads is 1:1.7. If this ratio is reduced by increasing the length of feed of the needle then the abrasion resistance of the chain side is improved. But if the needle thread length increases more than the looper thread then the abrasion resistance performance falls rapidly.

3. Seam tightness:

In the case of tight seams, resistance to abrasion is higher than the loose seams. The fabrics which are pucker prone are frequently stitched under very light tensions although sometimes seam grim is unavoidable. Higher the seam grim the less will be the seam abrasion resistance.

4. Fabric type:

Type of fabric is also important in this regard. Because, a coated or densely woven fabric will not permit the sewing thread to bed down and thus increases the susceptibility to the surface abrasion.

Hence, for garments likely to be exposed to abrasive elements during wear it is important to check stitch balance, seam and stitch type, fabric type, sewing thread type, seam tightness, seam grim aspect etc. To obtain a satisfactory seam abrasion resistance before going to full scale garments production.

Quality of Trimmings Should Ensure in Apparel Industry

Introduction:

Trimmings plays an important role in ready made garments sector. Trimmings are one of the basic needs for garments manufacturing. Perfect quality of trimmings should be ensured to get fault free and long lasting garments from RMG sector. As its importance, this article has presented some important quality of trimmings.

Trimmings used in apparel industry

Quality of Trimmings Should Ensure in Garments Industry:

The following article the quality of trimmings which must be needed to ensure in apparel industry:

1. Life time,
2. Shrinkage,
3. Color fastness,
4. Rust,
5. Comfort ability.

All the above trimmings quality have explained in the below:

1. Life time:

The life time of garments and the entire trimmings of it should be equal. Otherwise garments will be useless or rejected if any damaging of trimmings occurs. Specially, the trimmings may be damaged due to the temperature during washing or pressing if having low quality.

2. Shrinkage:

The garments will be useless or be looking bad if the trimmings of the garments are shrinked due to thewash or temperature or any other reasons. For example, if the sewing threads are shrinked due to the above reasons, seam puckering must be happened. As a result, the quality and adornment of garments will be poor.

3. Color fastness:

The color of trimmings may be faded due to the wash or friction or heat from the sunlight. If it happens, the quality and adornment of apparel will be poor. It must need the proper care to the color fastness of trimmings.

4. Rust:

Metal types trimmings of non-textile materials like button, zipper and so on would be rejected due to form rust on them. To avoid rusting, it must be used metal typed trimmings which are rust proof or nickel plated trimmings or non-metal type trimmings.

5. Comfort ability:

The trimmings which are used in the garments should not create any disturb during end use. Trimmings are used in the garments should be comfortable during end use to prevent skin disease to the wearer.

Pre-production Activities of a Garment Merchandiser

Introduction:

A garment merchandiser plays an important role in garments manufacturing business. He is the main for executing any garment export order. A garment merchandiser has to follow-up garments export order from its order receiving to shipment. As its importance in ready-made garments sector, today I will present here the pre-production activities of garment merchandiser.

Pre-production Meeting of Garment Merchandiser

Pre-production Activities of Apparel Merchandiser:

Before going to the production, some important activities should be done by garment merchandiser, which are mentioned in the below:

1. Tech pack received from the buyer,
2. Product development,
3. Product approval from the buyer,
4. Pricing,
5. Order confirmation,
6. Fabric and accessories consumption,
7. Fabric and accessories booking,
8. Fabric and accessories in-housed,
9. Going to the production.

All the above processes have discussed in the following:

1. Tech pack received from the buyer:
At the very first stage of a garment export order, buyer sends the tech pack to the apparel merchandiser to develop the sample.

2. Product development:
According to tech pack, garment merchandiser develops the sample. Normally product development sample quantity is 2-3pcs, where 1pc for buyer, 1 pc for agent and another 1pc for apparel merchandiser as a counter.

3. Product approval from the buyer:
When product development sample is completed then it’s sent to the buyer for approval. If product development is perfect then approved by the buyer, but if there’s needed any rectify then it’s sent again to the garment merchandiser. After maintaining buyer’s instructions product development sample again sent to the buyer for approval.

4. Pricing:
It is the main stage of any garment export order. Business profit is totally depends on it. After negotiating with buyer, garment merchandiser fixed a perfect price for the order here.

5. Order confirmation:
Finally order is confirmed here. In this stage, buyer confirms the quantity, shipping date and others terms related with apparel export order.

6. Fabric and accessories consumption:
In this stage, apparel merchandiser has to calculate fabrics and accessories consumption according to buyer’s provided measurement chart and order quantity.

7. Fabric and accessories booking:
According to fabric and accessories consumption, garment merchandiser should prepare a fabric and accessories booking chart to purchase the required items.

8. Fabric and accessories in-housed:
In this stage, required amount of fabrics and accessories are in-housed depending on the fabric and accessories booking chart.

9. Going to the production:
When all the above processes are completed then export order will set for the production.

How to Garment Analysis Before Order Confirmation

Introduction:

A garment merchandiser faces too much pressure before confirmation of a garment export order. During this time he has to analysis different matters related with the garments costing. This article has shown a garment analysis method which are strongly followed in ready made garment industry.

Garment analysis in apparel industry

Garment Analysis Method Followed in Apparel Industry:

There are various key points of garment analysis especially in the apparel export business. Those points have mentioned in the below:

1. Measurement chart,
2. Size ratio,
3. Color,
4. Quality of garments,
5. List of trimmings and accessories required,
6. Fabric consumption per dozen,
7. Cost of garments per dozen,
8. Determination of production time and delivery date.

All the above key points have explained in the following:

1. Measurement chart:

It is the first step of garment analysis for the apparel export order. Here, garment buyer passes the measurement chart to the apparel merchandiser. By following this measurement chart, manufacturers have to make the garments.

2. Size ratio:

Size ratio is another important point of garment analysis in garments export business. Size ratio consists of XS, S, M, L, XL, and XXL etc. It is normally confirmed by the buyers. It can be S: M: L:: 1:2:1. It’s just an example.

3. Color:

Color of garment is confirmed by the buyers. After receiving the color code or pantone number, garment merchandiser has to do lab dip for the definite color and approve from the buyer. It’s too much needy for the colored garments. It should be done by maintaining various precautions.

4. Quality of garments:

In this modern garment export business, quality plays an important role. Buyers are invested a lot of dollar to sustain their brand’s quality. As a result, garment merchandiser should confirm about different types of key matters which directly affected on garments quality such as measurement tolerance, fabric strength, seam strength, fabric defects, garment defects etc.  Quality has too much impact on garment analysis.

5. List of trimmings and accessories required:

Before garments order confirmation, apparel merchandiser should have excellent idea about the trimmings and accessories required for manufacturing the garments. Otherwise order profit will be decreased. it is one of the important point of garment analysis.

6. Fabric consumption per dozen:

Garments profit totally depends on fabric consumption. As a result it is too much important for a garment merchandiser to calculate accurate fabric consumption for the garments by following measurement chart. Normally it’s calculated in dozen.

7. Cost of garments per dozen:

After calculating fabric consumption, garments costing should be done by the apparel merchandiser. Cost of garments includes fabric cost, trimmings and accessories cost, washing cost, printing cost,dyeing cost, embroidery cost and others. It is also very important point of garment analysis.

8. Determination of production time and delivery date:

It is the last key point of garment analysis for a garment export order. Garment merchandiser should confirm the production time and delivery date for the order by discussing with the garments production personnel.

Qualifications of a Good Garment Merchandiser

Garment Merchandiser:

In garments sector, a merchandiser is one who works as a middle man or bridge between the buyer and manufacturer. He/she is the main responsible person to make the product. Becoming merchandiser means you have good knowledge about the business side of world. Where, you are not he designer, but you are the one who can spot which designs will spark the next hottest trend.

Garment merchandiser

A merchandiser has to keep good relation both with the buyer and manufacturer. As a result, to be a good merchandiser, some qualification should be maintained.

Qualifications for a good garment merchandiser:

A garment merchandiser should be achieved some important qualification to be a qualified merchandiser. Those are discussed in the following:

1. Excellent Communication Skills:

To be a qualified merchandiser, it’s a main and important issue. In which way an order will be completed, it’s totally depends on excellent communication skills of a merchandiser. If you can easily communicate with the buyer and manufacture then the whole process will be very easy to complete of an order.

2. Excellent English Proficiency:

Current generation is vastly depends on English language to communicate with foreigners. English proficiency is a burning criteria for a garment merchandiser. It helps a garments merchandiser to make excellent communication with the buyer.

3. Excellent Product Knowledge:

A qualified garments merchandiser should have needed excellent product knowledge. By which he/she can understand not only the correct information of the product from buyer but also suggest the accurate information up-to the manufacturer.

4. Computer Skills:

At current situation, virtual media is one of the very easiest and popular way to make communication with others. All kinds of record keeping and forming database, computer skills is must for a garments merchandiser. It’s seen that, most of the buying house is totally technology based. Where, buyer receives the daily updates via Skype, Viber, whatsapp etc. from a garments merchandiser. If you have enough knowledge on computer based technology then your job will be very easier.

5. Excellent Consumption Calculation Knowledge:

A qualified garment merchandiser has the correct consumption calculation knowledge to earn profit from an order. Because, an accurate consumption calculation is the key point for achieving profit of that order.

6. Excellent Knowledge about the Factory:

Before placing an order into factory, a garment merchandiser has to justify the current situation of that factory. Otherwise it will create heavy problem to submit the order in timely. As well as, it will create a bad impression on the merchandiser. So, to be qualified merchandiser, keeping excellent knowledge about the factory is must.

7. Excellent convincing quality:

During completing an order, little problems will be created but there’s a solution for every problems. Here, a garments merchandiser should have needed the excellent convincing quality to convince such kinds of problems by discussing with the buyer and make a correct solution of those problems.

8. Quick Decision Making Quality:

When a garment merchandiser dealing with the buyer, sometimes have to require taking important decision for that order. This should be quick enough so that normal flow of conversion haven’t faces any interruption. Actual product and manufacturing knowledge will help a merchandiser to take correct decision in such cases.

9. Ability to work in a Team:

To be a qualified garment merchandiser, ability to work in a team or group is an important criteria for a merchandiser. If you are in a team or group then you can easily get the very important supports from your team mate, which helps you to complete your order very efficiently. In large organization, you have to do your duty in a team or group. Where the success of an order will totally depends on team supporters or members.

10. Excellent Knowledge of the World Market:

If you want to be a qualified merchandiser then you have needed enough knowledge of the world current market. To make accurate price it’s a very important key point for a garments merchandiser.

11. Excellent Analytical Quality:

Analytical quality is an important key factor for a qualified garment merchandiser. Correct analysis of the situation helps to identify future demand and supply of goods.

Stricture of Functioning of Merchandising

Merchandising: 

Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production departments. It is the methods, practices, and operations used to promote and sustain certain categories of commercial activity. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to the buyers being handled.

Merchandiser:
The person who is related in merchandising is called merchandiser. The merchandiser coordinates with the design team to effectively present the product or product line. He or she develops colors and specifications, and performs market research to determine the most effective ways to sell and promote the product. This person needs strong communication and negotiation skills and visual and analytical abilities. He or she also needs to be a creative and innovative thinker.

Merchandising and merchandiser

Types of Merchandising:
Two type of merchandising done in garment exports

1. Marketing merchandising.
2. Product merchandising.

1. Marketing Merchandising:
Main function of marketing merchandising is

• Product Development
• Costing

Ordering marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has direct contact with the buyer. 

2. Product Merchandising:
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till shipment.

A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:

• Product Development
• Market and product Analysis
• Selling the concept
• Booking orders
• Confirming Deliveries
• Designing and Sampling
• Costing
• Raw Material
• Flow Monitoring
• Production Follow Ups
• Payments Follows
• Internal & external communication,
• Sampling
• Lab dips
• Accessories & trims
• Preparing internal order sheets
• Preparing purchase orders
• Advising and assisting production,
• Advising quality department about quality level
• Mediating production and quality departments
• Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
• Helping documentation department
• Taking responsibility for inspections and
• Following up the shipment.

Structure and Functioning of Merchandising:

Structure and Functioning of Merchandising

Price Quotation For Buyers

Price Quotation For Buyers 
There are following process for fixation price...............................

FOB:
	Free on board
	Exporter does not bear the cost of freight of ship or air.
	It is buyer who himself bears the cost of freight of ship or air.
C&F:
	Cost and Freight.
	Free on board + Freight.
	In this case ship or air freight is carried by the exporter while quoting price.
	This price a bit higher than FOB .
CIF:
	Cost Insurance and Freight.
	Free on board Freight and insurance.
	In this case in addition to the bearing of freight the cost of insurance is also borne by the exporter.
CM:
	Cost of Manufacturing.
	Manufacture or exporter will get only making charge at the same time will get
	Fabric is supplied by the buyers.
CMT:
	Cost of Manufacturing and Trimming.
	Manufacture or exporter will get only making charge of the garments.
	Manufacture or exporter will get only making charge at the same time will get

Production planning & controlling procedure of apparel industry

Planning for Garments: After the finishing process the finished fabrics are ready for producing garments.
For the production of garments this fabric has to passed through some process-
 Laying
 Cutting
Sorting
Sewing
Finishing
Packing etc.
All this processes are planned according to the shipment schedule.
However, the planning section always forces to all the departments to finish
all the work within the scheduled time given by the buyers.
Planning for finishing the fabric:
Finishing schedule are same as the dyeing. After dyeing, materials go to the finishing section with the batch plan. Finishing data is written to the batch card and is informed to the planning section. However, this section always forces to all the departments to finish all the work within the delivery time given by the buyers. Thus, it plays a very important role in the success of the company.
Planning for dyeing the fabric:
Production planning for dyeing is called “Batch plan”. Batch plan is prepared according to the batch no, fabric construction, color, width, GSM and priority of delivery etc and written in a batch card.
Planning for knitting: This section plans for knitting production. Following parameters are important for the planning of knitting the fabric –
Order quantity (required amount of fabric to be knitted)
 Type of fabric to be knitted (S/J, rib, interlock)
 No of machine to be used
 Type of yarn used
Sources of yarn
 Fabric GSM, width etc

Analyzing the orders: After getting the fabric order, this section analyzes the orders according to buyers order quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.), delivery date etc. This section plans for required quantity of fabric to be knitted (order quantity + 10% of the order quantity), knitting balance, fabric to be dyed, dyeing balance, RFD (ready for delivery), RFD balance, delivery fabric & delivery balance etc.

Taking order from marketing/ Merchandising division: Marketing/Merchandising division supplied fabric orders to the planning and control division by a specific format.

https://www.facebook.com/Planning-Merchandising-Topics-1100804749952026/

Woven Shirt Fabric Consumption Formula

Woven Shirt

For fabric consumption of woven shirt we need MEASUREMENT sheet. We have to consider the measurement of middle size garment or the garment containing maximum quantity. Suppose measurement sheet is as follows:

Measuring Point				Meas in inch
Body Length @ C.B. neck				31”
Chest circumf.				44 ½”
Across shoulder width seam to seam				19”
Bk Yoke height FM HPS				3 ½”
Sleeve length fm CBN thru sh to slv edge(3 pt)				34 ½”
Armhole ( Straight, point to point )				9 ½”
Sleeve bottom opening circ.@ cntr btn				9”
Cuff height				2 ½”
Neck circumf. closed(cntr bttn to BH end stitching)				16 ¼”
Collar height at CB (without neck band)				1 7/8”
Chest Pkt Width @ top				5”
Chest Pkt Length @ center				5 ¾”
FABRIC CONSUMPTION
PARTS	LENGTH (With sewing allowance)	WIDTH (With sewing allowance)	FABRIC	Formula
Back (*Except yoke)	29 ½”	24 ¼”	0.45163 yds	={(L x W)/(36 x 44)}
Front	33”	26 ¼”	0.54688 yds
Yoke	21	4 ½”	0.11932 yds
Collar	17 ¼”	5 ¾”	0.12524 yds
Slv(**Width=armhole straight X 2)	22 ½”	20”	0.56818 yds (2 Slv)
Pocket	5”	5 ¾”	0.03630 yds
Cuff	10”	3 ½”	0.04419 yds
Total (Pc)			1.89173 yds/pc
Total (Dzn)			22.70076 yds/dzn

Clarification of formula:

**Why 36
Ans: To convert inch into yard. 36 inch=1yard

**Why 44
Ans: Fabric width 44 inch. It may vary.