Terminology for Defining Visual Merchandising and Display

Accent Lighting: lighting technique that emphasizes, highlights, spotlights, or focuses on specific areas of the store, merchandise displays, or focal points of a display.

Add-on-Sale: merchandise added to the customer’s final selection for purchase at the point of sale; additional merchandise suggested by sales associate or visual presentation to compliment final merchandise selection of the consumer.

Adjacencies: floor layouts which position products used together next to each other Ambient Lighting: secondary lighting to set mood for store image and/or merchandise presentation.

Advertising: paid media or marketing tool with message controlled by the organization purchasing the mass media outlet Art (Design).

Elements: color, texture, proportion, line, shape.

Assortment Display: display composed of a collection of unrelated items found within a store; display with variety of merchandise or merchandise mix of a specific retailer.

Attention-Getting Devices: tool or mechanism in display that attracts the attention of the consumer; e.g., color, surprise or shock, humor, nostalgia, motion.

Awning: covering over a door or window that makes viewing of merchandise easier for the consumer or that provides protection from the climate, omits glare on the window for the viewer, or introduces a special event or advertising campaign for the season.

Back Wall: vista wall or architectural wall in the back of the department or store; it is one of the second most important selling areas in the store; it should be merchandised with current, trendy coordinated products that entice the consumer to browse from the front to the back of the department or store.

Balance: design principle used by visual merchandisers to create equality of weight and positioning of elements across the display for a unified composition; two types of balance include:

Formal or Symmetrical Balance: each side of display is a mirror image of the other side or elements of equal weight are equidistance on either side of the display; used to display expensive merchandise; career wear, formal wear, etc.

Informal or Asymmetrical Balance: either side of display appears to be of equal weight but elements are not replicas of one another; more interesting and more difficult to achieve than formal balance; used to display sportswear, active wear, etc.

Banner: communication tool usually made from fabric or treated paper designed with colorful graphics and created to attract the attention of the target consumer.

Brand: name, sign, symbol, logo, graphic, color combination, term, jingle, or any other concept or feature that identifies a company’s product or services and differentiates them from other companies’ products and services.

Brand Communications/Marketing Communications Division: a division or department of a brand company or manufacturer which is responsible for visual merchandising – trade, visual merchandising – retail, advertising, special events and promotions, publicity, etc.

Brand Image: characteristics, attributes, cues or personality that identify the brand or retailer and help to position the brand as compared to its competitors.

Chrome: shinny finish on fixtures used in retail store for presenting product categories, classifications, and grouping of merchandise.

Color: attribute or feature of product and store brand that consumer sees first when entering store; first characteristic that attracts the customer’s attention and the art element that motivates consumer to shop.

Cool Colors: colors that recede; blue, green, violet, blue-green.

Warm Colors: colors that advance; red, orange yellow, pink, rust, brown, peach.

Color Psychology: the study of the impact color has on the consumer’s emotions and perceptions of the visual presentation; therapeutic aspects color has on consumer; mood color establishes in mind of consumer.

Color Scheme: combination of various colors in product design and visual presentation.

Analogous or Adjacent: color scheme with colors located next to each other on the color wheel; e.g., yellow, yellow orange, orange, red orange.

Complementary: color scheme with combination of two colors directly opposite from each other on the color wheel; e.g., yellow, violet.

Double-Complementary: color scheme with combination of four colors or two colors plus their complements; e.g., green with red and blue with orange

Split-Complementary: color scheme with combination of three colors or a central color with the two colors on either side of its complement; e.g., blue, red orange and yellow orange.

Monochromatic: color scheme using one color in different values and intensities or the color range extending from the lightest tint to the deepest shade of the color: e.g., sky blue, marine blue, navy blue.

Neutral: color scheme of all white, all beige, all gray, all black, all brown.

Triadic: color scheme consisting of three colors equidistant from one another on the color wheel; e.g., red, blue, yellow.

Color Story: combination of colors used in coordinate grouping, seasonal line, or visual presentation; colors used to tie design concepts, and solids, prints, and pattern fabrics together in a grouping or seasonal line.

Colorway: assortment or combination of colors a brand company or manufacturer utilizes to design its seasonal line, product groupings, or related separates.

Color Wheel: graphic depicting the relationship of colors to one another.

Consumer Marketing Division: a division or department of a brand company or manufacturer which is responsible for design, development, merchandising, and often times sourcing a seasonal product line for the company.

Core or “Bread & Butter” Area: middle section or area of a store or department for presenting and housing volume merchandise such as basics, large assortments, coordinated groupings and related separates.

Demonstration Cube: blocks that may be covered with fabric, laminated, or finished wood used for a mannequin platform, display surface, etc.

Design Principles (Elements): include unity, harmony, balance, repetition, rhythm, emphasis, contrast.

Display: the act of dramatically or theatrically presenting merchandise categories in order to excite, stimulate, and encourage consumer motivation and interest for creating sales and increasing profit.

Display Calendar: a schedule of a store’s or department’s upcoming displays, usually planned a year in advance and based on store merchandise delivery dates, promotions, and seasonal holidays.

Display Case: a mechanism, fixture, or area for presenting merchandise; usually has glass top and sides for easy viewing of merchandise.

Display Plan: includes the who, what, where, why, and when of a merchandise presentation or display; includes a timetable or checklist for strategic points or calendar of dates for completion of all activities, an organizational chart of job responsibilities and personnel who will execute the activities for building the display, and a sketch or rendering (sometimes to scale) of the actual display.

Display Settings: background or type of setting for presenting merchandise or display.

Abstract Setting: background setting does not look like a realistic area or concept; the eye cannot decipher a concept but setting supports and reinforces the message and merchandise in the display; e.g., arrangement of lines and shapes in various spaces of the setting to provide a backdrop for merchandise.

Environmental Setting: all items in display are for sale or background becomes merchandise to sell; e.g., a bedroom display with furniture, home furnishings and textiles, and accessories for a bedroom.

Fantasy Setting: a setting created with expected or unexpected elements in unexpected places; a whimsical setting or an imaginative or fictitious setting for ordinary merchandise categories; e.g., chair and table on ceiling of display area.

Realistic Setting: an everyday life environment or recognizable area interpreted in the display; e.g., couple sitting at table in restaurant – display could feature apparel or fine China, crystal, and silver on table or all of the product classifications.

Semirealistic Setting: vignette setting or setting with recognizable product in a recognizable space but viewer must use imagination to complete the design idea.

Dominance: the element in the display that attracts the eye first and directs the viewer’s eye to other parts of the composition; emphasis of one element over other objects of the composition.

Dress Form: armless version of body shape (figure) that is utilized to present apparel, as if on actual physical body.

Emphasis: highlighting or calling attention to a particular item, usually the focal point, in a presentation.

Endcap Display: display featured at the end of fixtures; spaces with displays of complimentary merchandise positioned toward the aisle of entrance into an area in order to entice consumer to make add-on or impulse purchases.

Face out Fixture: arms (straight or slanted) on fixtures so that front of product is presented to viewer.

Fashion Image: the position of a store’s product in the fashion cycle or on the bell-shape curve of fashion; tool used in order to forecast the movement and direction of fashion for a particular trend, concept, or product.

Fixture: costumers, merchandisers, or other implements to hold and present merchandise or product categories

Floodlights: incandescent bulbs utilized to focus a wide beam of light on an area.

Floor Fixture: merchandise units used to hold and present merchandise in the store or department; e.g., rounders, quads, T-stands, multiple merchandisers.

Floor Plan: a flat sketch or drawing of the store or department floor space with wall areas, aisles, and fixture placement depicted.

Fluorescent Light: flat light with very little shadowing; low costs and efficient source of overall store lighting; provides no focus on merchandise texture or color.

Focal Point: the dominant element or the emphasized element within a display or merchandise presentation; central focus of the display from which the viewer’s eye may move in order to view other items in the display.

Four way Face out Fixture: four arm costumers or merchandisers used to hold and present merchandise or product categories: front view of four different product classifications or outfits can be shown simultaneously, with one being featured on each arm/prong.

Free-Flow or Maize Floor Plan: floor layout where fixtures are placed without a set pattern or set of aisles, however, traffic aisle is determined by placement of fixtures which are set in same direction or at same angle; fixtures are arranged in an informal pattern with nonlinear groupings.

General Lighting: an allover level of lighting or primary lighting.

Gondola: fixture or merchandiser with flat bottom and four straight sides used to merchandise product in aisles or high traffic areas.

Graphics: artwork, sketches, enlarged prints, photographs, and other types of art used to depict merchandise and/or to set the mood, create store ambience, décor and image.

Grid Floor Plan: floor layout where fixtures are placed in a linear pattern on the floor, creating horizontal and vertical aisles for traffic patterns throughout the store and/or department.

Hanger: an implement used for hanging garments.

Harmony: a design element creating a unified whole or unity in a display.

Hue: word used for the name of a color or as a synonym for color.

Integrated Marketing Communication Plan (IMC): retailer’s use or coordination of promotional tools of advertising, special events and promotions, visual merchandising, publicity, and fashion coordination and training to present a constant and consistent marketing strategy and message to the target consumer.

Institutional Display: display promoting the image of the store or promoting a cause supported by the store rather than promoting the store’s merchandise.

Intensity: the brightness or dullness of a color; purity and strength of color.

Intermediate Color: color that is results of mixing a primary and secondary color, using various amounts of each color.

Kiosk: fixture or freestanding, open-ended unit for housing and presenting merchandise; usually found in store aisles, main traffic paths, or open spaces for maximum visibility.

Layering: imposition or positioning of one garment on top of other garments; adds possibility of add-on sales and depth to display.

Ledge: an extension or shelf-like projection extending from the wall; it may hold displays or merchandise presentations.

Lifestyle: combination of how a customer lives, works and plays; a combination of activities, interests, occupations, hobbies, avocations, etc. of the consumer.

Lifestyle Presentation: a collection or assortment or various merchandise classifications presented in a setting where the customer will use the merchandise; merchandise depicting a particular lifestyle.

Lighting: device to call attention to display and merchandise presentation; device to build store image.

Line: direction; one element of a composition; line may be used as an attention-getter for the display.

Curve Line: an arc, circle or sphere; imparts grace, charm, femininity, softness, flow.

Diagonal Line: action line that suggests movement and excitement; designates action, forcefulness, strong and dynamic movement.

Horizontal Line: long, low, wide spreading line; imparts relaxed, peaceful, calm, quiet, tranquil atmosphere.

Vertical Line: straight elements joining floor to ceiling; symbolizes strength, height, pride, majesty, dignity, poise, balance, forcefulness, elegance, refinement.

Line-of-Goods Display: a display of one type of product classification shown in various colors and designs.

Logo: symbol, graphic, emblem, insignia denotes a company, product, service, etc.

Mannequin: replica of human form used to present clothing.

Marketing Mix: blend of components of product, price, place, promotion, people, positioning, presentation, packaging, processing, playback used in combination to build and present an idea, product, or service.

Market Segment Analysis: dividing a large, heterogeneous group of consumers into sub-segments or subgroups that are more homogeneous or that maintain similar values and product desires and needs

Marquee: canopy or awning over an entrance to store; large sign containing a listing of store names in a particular shopping center location.

Media Mix: combination of store’s usage of direct mail, Internet, magazines, newspapers, outdoor advertising, radio, television, etc.

Merchandise Islands: merchandise presentation near an entrance, escalator, stairway, or elevator that can be viewed from all sides; frequently feature impulse buys, low-price, easy-to-sell items or “pick-up” merchandise.

Merchandise Presentation: combination of storing, housing, presenting, displaying and promoting merchandise classifications while maximizing floor space in order to build optimum sales and profit potential.

Merchandising Policy: includes retailer’s merchandising plans and guidelines for selection of vendors, retail/vendor matrix, pricing policies, presentation and display policies, markdown policies and promotional endeavors, etc.

NADI: National Association of Display Industries; organization with members composed of visual merchandising material producers and distributors

Niche Marketing: targeting a specific market segment and offering unique products and services that the small group or sub-group needs, wants, and can buy.

Nostalgia: a remembrance of times, events, or products of the past that can be utilized to attract the consumer by stirring past emotions and memories.

One-Item Display: display or merchandise presentation of a single item.

Outpost: selling fixture or unit with merchandise from a department within the retail store but located in an area away from the department in which it is usually merchandised.

Pastel: a tint of a color or a full-value color to which white has been added, creating a lighter color of the original.

Planogram: sketches or drawings of the placement of merchandise on fixtures positioned on selling floor, walls, and in displays.

Platform: a riser; elevated cube; a raised area for displaying and merchandising.

POP: point-of-purchase display and/or signage for POP display.

POPAI: Point-of-Purchase Advertising Institute; international trade association of designers and producers of displays and fixtures, advertisers, and retailers.

Pop-Up Shop: retail area set up for a limited amount of time.

Primary Colors: three colors from which all other colors are composed; red, blue, yellow.

Promotional Display: display featuring concept, trend or product; display may be composed of one item, line-of-goods, related separates or concepts, or a variety of product that are regular or special priced goods.

Promotional Mix: includes combinations of advertising, special events and promotions, visual merchandising and display, publicity, and fashion coordination and training vehicles that a business uses in order to communicate with its target consumer about store and product offerings.

Prop: article, object, or item used to reinforce a display theme, merchandise concept or visual setting.

Proportion: design or art element illustrating the proper size relationships between objects and spaces; relationships of sizes, scales, and weights of elements between each other and the entire composition of a display.

Publicity: is “free” media exposure that cannot be controlled by a firm or business; it can be both positive and negative for the retailer; message is not paid for, therefore companies attempt to monitor and manage all publicity about their store and/or product offerings.

Psychographics: market research that analyzes the impact of consumers’ activities, interests, opinions, values, and mores on the buying and purchasing patterns of the consumers.

Racetrack Floor Plan: floor layout where traffic aisles are laid out on right and left of circular, rectangular, or oval racetrack floor layout.

Related Merchandise Display: display of items that have same end use; items may be related or share same color, theme, trend, or product classification.

Repetition: design principle that utilizes the reiteration of an idea or repeating the idea over and over again in the same display; e.g., same garment, same color, same line, same shape, same form.

Retail Services Division: the division in the brand company or manufacturer that has the responsibilities of providing customer services for the retail store, organizing account management for company’s account executives and sales representatives, analyzing scanner data of the retailer’s inventory and sales realized for the branded company’s product, and overseeing retail service coordination between the brand company and retail client.

Rhythm: principle of design that promotes movement of the eye from the dominant object to subordinate objects, from the major items to accessories; that promotes movement of the eye from element to element, from background to foreground, and from side to side of the display.

Riser: display unit used to elevate merchandise in the display; platform or cube.

Sales Promotion (Event): event or happening that communicates the store’s image and product offering, which may or may not be reduced price merchandise, to the target consumer; vendor demonstrations, contests, fashion events, vendor sponsored events featuring GWP and PWP.

Sales Promotion Division: in the retail store, the division that has the responsibilities of coordinating and creating advertising, visual merchandising, special events and promotions, fashion coordination and publicity in order to market the retail store and its products and services.

Scale: a size of item in relation to size of other items in a display; a proportional representation of an object or size of object in proportion to the size of the actual object Secondary Colors: combination of mixing pairs of primary colors; e.g., yellow and blue becomes green.

Shade: color that is darkened by adding gray or black to the color, creating a deeper color.

Shadow: in lighting, a part of an area that is darker as compared to the other areas of the display, merchandise presentation, or store.

Shadow Box: small, elevated window box of glass or part glass for displaying expensive or special merchandise.

Shop Concept: small area of store where similar types or the same brand of various product classifications are merchandised and displayed; small area in store housing specific brand in order to portray a lifestyle setting or to create the brand image for a particular brand company or designer.

Sightline: when standing in an aisle or in a shop or department, the area the consumer can view from the front aisle when looking toward the back of the shop or department; from front aisle viewing the back and side walls and throughout the department; created by placement of aisles, walls, and fixtures.

Sign: graphic or signage on outside of store building or inside store designating a department or area within a store; it imparts store image through graphics, color, letter type and font, scale and materials.

Signage: system of signs within a store to designate location, information, and department placement.

Store Attributes: cues or elements that build store image, assisting the target consumer to form a mental image or impression for what the store stands; elements include history of the store; physical cues such as exterior and interior décor; customer services, including type and quantity; store personnel; merchandising and pricing policies; channel of distribution and location of store; marketing and promotional mix.

Store Image: mental perception the consumer perceives of store’s personality; character or unique personality store represents; opinions consumer form of store based on policies and activities of the retailer.

Store Planner: designer, architect, or visual merchandiser who plans spaces, coloring, lighting, store exterior/interior, etc.

Target Consumer (Market): sub-segment of a larger homogeneous market for whom the store can provide the best value offering while meeting the needs and wants of the consumer; a segment of the population or consumers who have similar needs and wants and whom the retailer is capable of providing the products or service offerings to meet those needs and wants.

Tertiary Colors: combination of mixing primary colors with secondary colors to form a new color.

Texture: a design or art element that describes the way a surface feels or the “hand” of the item; texture affects color of merchandise or is the absorption or reflection of light on a rough or shinny surface.

Theme: unifying concept or commonality that ties the display and/or line of merchandise together; e.g., Southwest theme Tint: color that is formed by adding white to a color, creating a lighter variation of the color.

Tone: the mood set by the store image or theme of merchandise presentation or display.

Trademark: word, design, graphic, symbol that designates a particular company’s product.

Tradeshow: the location or mart building where a brand company or manufacturer presents its line-of merchandise to its client, the retailer; usually these shows are held in large exhibit halls and all vendors with like product exhibit at a designated time or week.

Trading Area: the geographic area from which the store targets its consumers.

Trends: direction and movement of major ideas, themes, product or design concepts.

Unity: in a display, the organization or grouping of elements into a pleasing, harmonious whole.

Value: the lightness or darkness of a color.

Variety Display: display composed of unrelated items found in a store.

Vignette: display with a partial version of a realistic setting.

Vista (Top) Wall: the back walls of a store or department; the second most important selling space found in a floor layout; second area in sightline when consumer enters store or department.

Visual Merchandising: combination of store design, merchandise presentation, and display in order to promote sales and increase profit margins.

Visual Merchandising Department: in the retail store, the department in the Sales Promotion Division responsible for store environment, merchandise presentation, and display.

Visual Merchandising – Retail Department: department in a brand company responsible for interfacing with the brand company’s client or the retail store buyer, merchandiser, and/or Sales Promotion Division of the retailer; the department plans, develops, and executes the in-store account and category specific strategies such as developing shop concepts, outposts and shop presentations.

Visual Merchandising – Trade Department: department in a brand company responsible for development and execution of trade shows and showrooms or exhibit marketing strategies to position products, drive brand awareness, and influence a positive corporate image.

Waterfalls: fixtures with angled arms cascading off the wall or on a T-stand; fixtures usually have knobs, hooks, or notches to keep hanger holding the merchandise in position.

Windows-on-the-Aisle: area, frequently on an aisle, at front of store or department which the consumer views first when entering the store or department; merchandise is usually the most exquisite or expensive products, new arrivals, and/or the most trendy merchandise carried in the store or department.

Interview Question for Garment Quality Inspection/ Quality Assurance/ Buying Quality Inspector

An interview is a structured conversation where one participant asks questions, and the other provides answers. In common parlance, the word "interview" refers to a one-on-one conversation between an interviewer and an interviewee.

 

Interview Question and Answer for Apparel Quality Inspector & Quality Assurance:



The below interview question and answers are very important to get garments QI/ QA/ buying QA  job.

 

1. What is the grainline? 

Answer: Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called a grain line. When pattern pieces are laid down during marker making over the cloth, the grainline should be parallel to the warp if the fabric is woven and wales in the case of knitted fabric. Only the exception is seen for bias cut.

 

2. What is the handle? 

Answer: It is a characteristic of fabrics that are perceived by touching, squeezing, or rubbing them.

 

3. What is hip? 

Answer: It is a specified level down from the waist seam and garment closed measure straight across the garment, from one edge to the other.

 

4. What is the waist? 

Answer: Regular waistband or elastic relaxed, garment closed and with front and back waistband edges even at the top, measure across the middle of waistband or along with elastic relaxed from one edge to other.

 

5. What is sleeve length? 

Answer: It is the measurement from the center back neck seam or edges straight across to shoulder or armhole point, along sleeves fold line down to the bottom edge of the sleeve opening.

 

6. What is the sleeve inseam? 

Answer: The measurement from under armhole seam to the bottom edge of sleeve opening (cuff included) with vent closed (if applicable).

 

7. What is pleat? 

Answer: It is used to increase the fullness of the garments. It is generally made by folding the fabric. Dart and pleat are used in the back part of the Men’s shirt usually.

 

8. What is the inseam length? 

Answer: Along the inside seam of the leg, the measurement from the crotch seam down to the bottom edge of the leg opening. Rib or elastic bands included in this measurement.

 

9. What is drape? 

Answer: It is a character of fabric that indicates flexibility and suppleness of fabric.

 

10. What is the durable press (DP)? 

Answer: The name was given to a special finish that provides the garments with shape retention, durable pleats and pressed creases, durably smooth seams, and wrinkle resistance during use and after laundering or dry cleaning. The durable press also can be added to the stretch fabrics to produce garments that stretch yet hold their shape and their creases.

 

11. What is the double-faced fabric

Answer: Cloth with both ends similar is termed as double-faced fabric.

 

12. What is a basic block? 

Answer: Assimilating of diagram of net dimension on papers each and individual part without any allowance which is called a pattern and it is called also basic block.

 

13. What is crease? 

Answer: The crease is any kind of folding in clothes.

 

14. What is color bleeding? 

Answer: It is the pigment or dye or color of a cloth that is partially gone into the water if such colored cloth is soaked in water or solvent. Pigment dye comes out from one place to another and is a stuck place nearby suck characteristics are called color bleeding.

 

15. What is crocking? 

Answer: Crocking is the act of taking out color from the dry and wet cloth by rubbing or scouring.

 

16. What is back length or HPS? 

Answer: HPS stands for the high point of the shoulder. Normally it is known as the back length which is measured from the high point of the shoulder down to the bottom edge of the garment.

 

17. What is the back rise? 

Answer: It is the measure from crotch intersection point, along center back seam following curve up to waistband top edge.

 

18. What is CBN? 

Answer: CBN stands for center back neck. It is the measure from the center back neck seam or edges down to the bottom edge of a garment.

 

19. What is blind stitch? 

Answer: It is a special type of stitch that cannot see from the face side of the fabric but can easily see from the backside.

 

20. What is a backstitch? 

Answer: It is one kind of hand stitch for sewing the apparel, which could also do by using a sewing machine.

 

21. What is CF Line? 

Answer: The straight line bottom to up vertically along the middle point of the body in front of a shirt or jacket.

 

22. What is bar tack? 

Answer: Re-stitching over a very short length to give and increase the area of high load-bearing strength (Example: belt loops and pocket corners are bar-tacked).

 

23. What is back tacking? 

Answer: Approximately 1cm or small stitch backward at the beginning and finishing of sewing, which is used securing of the sewn end so that the thread could not be loosed easily.

 

24. What is allowance? 

Answer: When the garment is made by adding extra dimension with the net dimension of the garment is called allowance.

 

25. What is a back rise?

 Answer: The distance from the crotch back waistline is called back rise.

 

26. What is across back? 

Answer: It is the measure of straight across the back of garment at the midpoint of armhole seam or edge from one side to other.

How to Test Fabric Sewability in Apparel Industry

Introduction:

Before manufacturing any garment product in ready made garment industry, fabric should be tested whether it is perfect or not for sewing. In fabric sew ability assessment method, some tests should be followed which are mentioned in this article.




Fabric Sew ability Assessment Method Followed in Garment Industry:


To assess the sew ability of fabric, it is necessary to do the following tests:
  1. Seam strength,
  2. Seam puckering,
  3. Seam slippage,
  4. Resistance to fraying,
  5. Lubricant content.
All the above tests have explained in the below:

1. Seam strength:

The proposed end use and properties of the fabric are considered when sewing thread type, stitch type and sewing conditions are determined. The seam strength test is done to ensure that the necessary values for sew ability have been achieved.

2. Seam puckering:

Sample fabric is sewn in both warp and weft directions as per pre-selected sewing conditions. Seam puckering due to the structural jamming is observed and recorded. Densely woven fabrics frequently contribute to this type of defect. it is so important to test the sew ability of fabric.

3. Seam slippage:

Seam slippage of specimen seams sewn in both warp and weft directions are evaluated as per standard test method for fabric sew ability, so that the slippage does not exceed 5mm.

4. Resistance to fraying:

The sample fabric is subjected to a domestic wash cycle. After that, fabric fraying from the edge in both warp and weft direction is measured to ensure that fraying does not exceed 3mm.

5. Lubricant content:

The percentage of lubricant present in a fabric is determined by treating the fabric with a suitable solvent. To facilitate trouble free sewing, lubricant content in a fabric should be between 0.5 to 1% depending on fabric type, construction and lubricant type etc. if the lubricant content in a fabric is too low than the required amount, then fabric damaged by needle or frictional heat in needle would obviously result. It is also very important test for fabric sew ability assessment.
Fabrics passing all the above mentioned tests for fabric sew ability assessment are assumed to be suitable for making-up. Failure in any of the mentioned test, attention should be drawn to the fabric manufacturer, so that they could take corrective measures before marketing their products.

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Main Objects of Fabric Spreading

Introduction:

Fabric spreading is one of the most important processes in readymade garments sector, by which fabric plies are spread in order to get required length and width as per marker dimension. If fabric spreading is perfect then fabric wastage will be decreased, which ultimately helps to achieve higher profit from a garment export order. As its importance in garments manufacturing sector, today I will present here some key purposes or objects of fabric spreading.
Fabric Spreading in Garments Industry
Fabric Spreading in Garments Industry

Definition of Fabric Spreading:

Fabric spreading means the smooth lying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of definite length. It is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of fabric lying. Marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layers. It should be noted here that, during fabric spreading, number of the plies should be not more than three hundreds, where the number of lay depends on the height of the fabric and thickness of the fabric.

Purpose of Fabric Spreading:

  1. It helps to place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker.
  2. It helps to cut the fabrics in bulk quantity at the same time.
  3. It helps in saving fabric cutting time for bulk garments production.
  4. During cutting the fabric, it helps to use multi garments marker at the same time.
  5. It helps in cutting many fabric plies at the same time.
  6. It helps to make every fabric ply plain and flat.
Speech from the writer:If you read this article with full concentration then you can answer the below questions in the interview:
  1. What do you mean by fabric spreading?
  2. Point out various purposes of fabric spreading.
  3. Mention the significance of fabric spreading in apparel manufacturing sector.

Merchandising Department Standard Operating Procedure

 



No need to mention that apparel merchandising is one of the primary and essential activities in apparel manufacturing and apparel export business. Hence garment manufacturers set up merchandising department. Factories hire merchandisers to handle internal and external merchandising activities.

In this post I will be talking about standard procedures (SOPs) of the merchandising department in readymade garment production. Sometimes it is assumed that preparing SOP is a complex task and need an expert to draft an SOP and need thorough analysis and approval before implementation the in the system. This is true but partially. If everyone thinks that way, nobody would come forward and prepare SOPs for their factory departments and activities.


These SOPs are easier to understand and apply in the factory. These SOPs were made for one small-size garment export house.

SOPs are shown for the following activities of merchandising department:

  1. Preparation of bill of material (BOM)
  2. Time & Action Calendar
  3. Approval of Samples, fabric and trims
  4. Production File
  5. PP Meeting


Task-1: BOM Preparation

 Title: Preparation of bill of material (BOM)

Revision: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandisers

Standard operating procedure

  1. BOM to be prepared for all orders within two working days after receiving PO from buyer 
  2. BOM format to use as provided to merchandising department (in a spreadsheet) 
  3. Take approval on fabric consumption and trims consumption from concerned person 
  4. Add rate for all items and total amount in the BOM (if data is available) 
  5. After making BOM, it should be forwarded to sourcing department (fabric and trims store) and PPC department 
  6. If required, correction on BOM to be made by 1 day
  7. Fabric and trim store to be provided with final bill of material 


Task-2: TNA Calendar preparation and circulation

 Title: Preparation of Time and Action Calendar

Revision: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandisers

Standard operating procedure

  1. Initiate TNA Calendar preparation after receiving order confirmation 
  2. First TNA Calendar to be submitted after one day of order receiving 
  3. Analyze style and identify processes to be done for the style 
  4. Discuss with PPC department about production process capacity 
  5. Prepare TNA Calendar based on process capacity and order quantity 
  6. Mail TNA Calendar to Management, PPC department, Store and QA 
  7. Update TNA Calendar daily basis and enter actual date of completion of a particular task 
  8. Initial Plan date should not be modified 
  9. Modify TNA Calendar if required and circulate modified TNA Calendar with concerned department.


Task-3: Production files preparation

 Title: Preparation of Production files

 Revision: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandisers

Standard Operating Procedure
1. Prepare production file prior to PP Meeting
2. Cover page of the production file to mark as

  • Style #, Buyer name
  • Order quantity, 
  • PP Meeting Date 
  • Ex-factory date 
  • Merchant’s Name who is handling particular account 

3. A Production file must include following items

  • Production file check list 
  • Apparel Tech pack 
  • Purchase Order (PO) 
  • Approved Fabric Swatches (all color ways) 
  • Approved Trim card 
  • Approved print and Embroidery design for color and artwork 
  • PP comments 
  • Buyer’s comment on samples, swatches and approvals 
  • Special instruction for line supervisor/QA 
  • Approved production pattern 
  • PP Meeting comments (Minutes of the meeting) 
  • Copy of TNA Calendar (style wise) 
  • Packing Specification 

4. Production file to be handed over to Production Team and Quality Team at the time of PP meeting
5. Number of production files to be made to be decided by internal team
6. T&A calendar to be reviewed at the time of PP Meeting and if required re-planning to be done
7. Responsibility of each task (process) to be discussed


Task-4: Approval of Bulk fabric

 Title: Bulk fabric approval process  

Version: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandisers

Standard Operating Procedure

  1. Receive fabric swatch card (3 sets) from fabric store on receiving of bulk fabric. ( prior to PP meeting) 
  2. Merchandiser need to provide approvals to each fabric for Fabric quality, Shrinkage and spirality and Fabric Shade band 
  3. In case bulk fabric approval to be taken from buyer/buying house, merchant should do sample submission and follow up for the approval   
  4. One swatch card to be given to Store, One for production file and one for merchandiser 
  5. For rejected or Hold Fabric, decision to be taken by Merchant 


Task-5: Approval of BulkTrims

 Title: Bulk trim approval process

Version: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandisers

Standard Operating Procedure

  1. Receive Trim card (3 sets) from trim store on receiving of bulk trims (prior to PP Meeting). 
  2. Merchant need to provide approvals to each fabric for  - (a) Trims quality, (b) Shrinkage and color fastness and (c) Shade variation (DTM tapes, buttons) 
  3. One Trim card to be given to Store, One for production file and one for merchandiser 

 

Task-6: Conducting PP Meeting

 Title: Conducting Pre-production meeting  

Version: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandiser

Standard Operating Procedure

1. Prior to PP Meeting prepare production file
2. Prior to PP meeting take approval on PP sample (sealed sample)
3. Intimate PP Meeting date one day in advance to all concerned department heads/personnel
4. PP Meeting to be attained by

  • Merchandiser 
  • Sampling team 
  • Fabric and Trim store, fabric checker 
  • Cutting team 
  • Production team 
  • PPC 
  • Quality Assurance 
  • Finishing and Packaging team 

5. Minute of the meeting (MOM) to be prepared by QA (or any other assigned person) and to be signed by all participants
6. Copy of the MOM to be filed in the production file
7. Revisit production planning of the style (order) and do necessary modification of dates and processes if required
8. Responsible person for each task to be assigned in Style planning sheet

Reference: pre-production activity check list 

Essential Qualities to be a Good Merchandiser

He who wishes to be a good merchandiser and curious to do the job in the apparel industry or buying house should acquire some particular quality to become success. He should have strong determination from early life and get prepared to obtain the goals. It will be easy those who have deep eagerness to gather knowledge in apparel merchandising.

 If someone got expertise on apparel merchandising through practical task can desire high salary within a short time and it will be exceeded his expectation.

 If you wish to become an efficient merchandiser then you should prepare yourself by following guideline. Here I have tried to compile all of these for your easy understanding. Someone can be a good merchandiser if he loves this task deeply otherwise his dreams may not come true.

Merchandising


 1. A merchandiser has to communicate with bunch of parties. They should have sound skill in written and spoken English. Skill on other language may give them additional advantage. Excellent communication skill can expedite their career graph. Strong negotiation skills, visual and analytic abilities would be a plus point.

 2. Knowledge about Computer literacy, Excellent in data searching through internet browsing and smart e-mail correspondence skill require to minimize workload.

 3. A good merchandiser has to be a good planner also. He should maintain a critical path, time and action plan strictly to hit the delivery date. He needs to be tricky and expert to handle bottleneck situation smartly.

 4. Acquire good knowledge of consumption and costing. They should know manual consumption and instant costing to obtain bulk order from bidding. He or she also needs to be a creative and innovative thinker.

 5. If you have strong educational background that can help you to become a leader in this arena. If you have fashion design or textile engineering background that will be well and good, but if you come from general line then try to get high school diploma or certificate course on apparel merchandising to develop individual skills as to be a good merchandiser. Academic degree will give you strong support to escalate your position.

 6. Merchandiser has to make decision quickly. So he should be smart, intelligent; strong enough in personality and excellent behaviors.

 7. They should have information of all Spinning mills, knitting mills, dyeing factories with their M/C and production capacity.

 8. Know all sorts of knitted and woven fabrics as well as knitting/weaving patterns to make development.

 Knitted fabrics: The knitting patterns are Single jersey, Rib, Terry, Variable ribs, Drop needle, Interlock Pique, Fleece etc.

Woven fabrics: The weaving patterns are Twill, Dobby, Jacquard, Poplin, Oxford, Corduroy, Checks, and Plaids.

9. Should have vast knowledge on fibers content to make decision:

 Synthetic fibers

Natural fibers

Animal fibers

Mineral fibers

10. Learn the basics of Apparel Merchandising day by day from the beginning of your career to become an expert as well as to hike your career graph. Never miss on-job training programs.  Remember that on-job training programs will raise your confidence level tremendously.

 11. Printing is an essential decorative task in garment industry. So merchandiser should have vast knowledge regarding all types of printing. These are:

 Should know different sort of print pricing individually

All-over printing

Screen print

Reactive print

Lurex print

Dip-dye print

Embossed print

Heat transfer print

Discharge print

Hi-density print

Pigment print

Flock print

Foil print

Print with plastisol dye stuffs

12. Embroidery is an external ornamental task in garment industry. So merchandiser should have keen knowledge of the difference between all types of embroideries.

Should know embroidery pricing individually

Plain embroidery with one color

Plain embroidery with multi-color`

Embroidery with laser cut design

Embroidery with lurex thread

Embroidery on printing

Embroidery with application

Embroidery with sequins setting

Embroidery with quilting

Embroidery with application over application

13. Earn Hands-On Experience to deliver right decision during crucial moments. And attempt to Build Industry Connections is Important to get better scope in this arena. Keep in close contact with anyone you meet in the industry. Networking is power. So try to increase networking by email or through social media to measure their willingness to help you to find better opportunity.

 14. Merchandiser has to make different sort of samples during their job tenure. So he should know all samples and their consequence. Types of samples are:

 Proto sample

Fit sample

Size set sample

Counter sample

Sealed/Red/Yellow label sample

Pre- production sample

Lab test sample

Photo shoot sample

Salesman sample

Top sample

Shipment sample

15. Merchandiser has to procure several items from different suppliers. So he should keep record of all yarn, fabric, and garments accessories suppliers address and contact details.

16. Merchandiser should have good idea on global business. Thus they should have good knowledge of Export and Import terms.

17. Make a habit of replying all emails without wasting any time. Keep conscious to provide meaningful reply within short time. 

18. A merchandiser should empathize to gather practical knowledge about production process and technical issues to expedite his career graph. The issue whatever raise he should ask more to production people to listen more and learn more to make him expert.

19. Have to be sincere to his job and duties as well as to accomplish assign task. 

20. Know all sort of Lab testing requirements when requiring:

Color fastness test to light

Cross staining test

Tensile test

Peeling Test

Shrinkage/ Dimensional Stability Test

Crocking / Rubbing Test (Dry/Wet)

Perspiration Test

Test of brushing of fabric

Washing fastness test

Saliva test (for children’s wear)

Test of presence of AZO, PVC, Formaldehyde or any other carsegonic substance in the garments.

21. They should have sound idea on international duty rates and customs regulations

22. They have to procure materials from different end of the world. Thus they should know all sea and freight forwarder details to make easy shipment.

23. They have to contact with forwarder regularly and must know all feeder and mother vessel schedule.

24. Keep updated records of container charges (20 feet, 40 feet, 40 feet high cube, 45 feet high cube)

25. Know all technical or commercial terms for accurate and efficient communication.

26. They should have information of all garment trimmings and accessories sourcing like as Printing, Embroidery, Elastic, Poly, Hanger, Labels, Laces, Cartons and Garments manufacturing etc.

27. Always check all booking of fabrics and accessories before and after sending; if possible get it checked by third person.

28. Excellent power of motivation to handle any situation and improve public relations to achieve maximum benefits.

29. Be professional and keep commitment with Buyers and Suppliers.

30. Should have sound idea about commercial invoice, packing list, assortment, EP, IP, carton box shipping mark and buyer instructions.

31. Merchandiser has to handle several issues at a time. So always show positive attitude to resolve all problem.

32. It’s all about a game of good planning. He who got success in this arena obviously a balance planner

33. Know all buyers compliance and various standards.

34. Keep knowledge about order execution procedures of international buyers

35. Clear conception of the usual potential Quality problem in Apparel merchandising.

36. They should have production-related all updated news like inputs- outputs, daily garments production records from the factory manager. 

37. Merchandiser needs to take decision while any quality issue arises. Thus they should have good knowledge about usual Apparel Inspection System, Raw materials, AQL and Quality Management System. Sometimes they have to handle third-party inspectors.

38. Should know about the Quota system, L/C terms, Banking documentation and regulations, Free-trade and shipping. 

39. A merchandiser needs to be a practical person. They never do anything on assumption, always get clarification and keep written records with date and time. Critical path is mandatory to be a good merchandiser.

40. They should visit production floor daily and should gather vast knowledge on technical issues and production process. He should find out the root cause and provide solution instantly to get a positive result.

41. They should visit supplier’s factory frequently that is textile mills, embroidery factory, and printing factory, accessories factory to make good relation and achieve sound idea on technical issues, production lead-time, and production process.

42. A smart merchandiser should have curiosity regarding update fashion trend. They should attend fashion related trade fair, Textile fair, Garments Fair to gather knowledge.

 

A merchandiser is considered to be a pulse in the garment industry. They have to obey several tasks at a time. Thus they should become more diplomatic, industries and efficient. They should maintain a decent life to accomplish their assign tasks perfectly. Merchandiser should love his task deeply. I have compiled bunch of qualities what a merchandiser should exist. I am hopeful that these requirements, basic practical knowledge, and skills will be helpful to get merchandising career smoothly.

Become a Successful Apparel Merchandiser

If you have curiosity regarding apparel merchandising and wish to select it as your career then you should know well what is merchandising? Who is a Merchandiser? What is their responsibility? What role they have to play in garment industry? Why young generation gets fascination with apparel merchandising? Let’s focus all of the techniques boldly to be a successful garment merchandiser. I think you will get a sound idea on your dream career after reading this article.

 


Merchandising: 

Merchandising is one sort of attempt to present new products to his desire customers. Merchandiser should consider all of the features of a product, including design, quality; product life-cycle, consumers buying ability, consumer’s behavior and demand during his preparation.

 

Merchandiser: 

The word Merchandise means buying and selling something to someone. The person who is dealing with the merchandise is called Merchandiser. If the individual engaged with apparel product, then the person is called Apparel Merchandiser. A merchandiser is a person who is specially appointed to promote the goods. He has to handle some buyers smartly to develop new samples, prepare forecast trends, check production plan, check stock levels and monitor how well goods are selling. He has to ensure raw-material pipeline through the supply chain and make sure that goods are available in the right store, at the right time and at the right price. Merchandising is one of the top-rated careers in the world. Someone who wishes to build a career in merchandising and want to become a successful merchandiser has to maintain some qualities.

 

Merchandiser is a word which has a particular meaning. Please go through below to know the meaning:

 

M– Managerial capabilities to handle assign task smartly

E– Efficient in communication through local and foreign language 

R– Regular in service and rational in behavior 

C– Should have self confidence in taking any decision 

H– Have to be honest and should maintain a decent life 

A– Should have positive attitude during decision making 

N– Nice behavior and positive attitude to carry out buyers order

D– Devoted to service and never do argue with seniors 

I– Having illustrious mind and Intelligent enough to resolve any issue 

S– Sincere in assign task 

E– Realistic in forecasting 

R– Replenish character to achieve goals

Production Merchandising




 Introduction

Production Merchandising is a function of multiple activities performed by a person which are either parallel or inter connected. Some of them are interdependent and others are independent of each other. Merchandising involves planning and execution of the export order with the right place, at the right time, in the right quantities, at the right price. It is concerned with all the activities necessary to provide buyers with the merchandise they want to buy and when and where they want it and at prices they can afford and are willing to pay. Hence it involves making execution plans, understanding the buyers need regarding quality and cost, follow up of running order, effective communication with buyer. The term ‘Merchandising’ has always been a magic word and hot pick of the cake in the field of apparel and fashion merchandising. Most of the persons who want to pursue a career in the apparel field want to become a merchandiser. What makes this so much attractive and important is—reputation, responsibility and career growth.

  

Functions of production merchandiser

1. Product development

Product development is the business policy of the organization which includes the development of the new designs and styles within the organization. This activity brings the more business to organization, by showing pro-activeness in design development buyer also impress. The role of production merchandiser in this activity plays very important role. Production merchandiser must keep update to buyer time to time about the product development done by organization. Motivate the buyer to give the design development to the organization instead of doing themselves. Whenever buyer visits to the organization, presentation of new color, prints, embroidery patterns and desk loom developments is done by production merchandiser. To present new designs developed by product development department. Try to convince the buyer to select the designs from presentation.  A very good presentation and convincing ability of production merchandiser brings more business to the organization.

 

2. Sampling

Sampling is one of the main processes in Garment manufacturing and it plays vital role in attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally places the order once satisfied with the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. Sampling is the most crucial and most important stage of fashion merchandising. Sampling department makes samples on the basis of the specification and requirement by the buyer. Sampling in merchandising may be defined as “The concept, perception and ideas of fashion designer developed into product samples, in systematic stages of product development, with technical and quality clarity in a development.” The role of merchandiser plays the crucial role as the follow up of the samples is important aspect. Buyer passes some comments to the merchandiser after submitting the sample. These comments are needed to understand and communicate with the sampling department. Get changes from the sampling and resubmit to buyer. Follow up with buyer to get approvals of the sample.

 

3. Costing

Costing is the very dynamic process, and it is the most important function performed by merchandiser. Merchandiser should have knowledge of costing and it’s calculations. While calculating the cost of the garment merchandiser keeps following things in mind.

 

Fabric consumption

Trims

CMT

Value added services: printing, embroidery, washing, applique

Testing

Transportation and logistics cost

Profit of the manufacturing organization

Currency exchange rate

The role of merchandiser does not end only after calculating the cost, but after quoting the cost merchandiser need to negotiate with buyer on cost of the garment.

 

4. Planning (Time and action calendar)

Production merchandising is an interdependent activity. Successful merchandising is outcome of effective preparation and follows up of time and action calendar by all departments. Time and Action Calendar or TNA, a most important jargon used in fashion merchandising, it is an effective way of coordination and following up of important milestones in preproduction processes to ensure timely delivery within stipulated delivery date. Despite claims of being practically in use by most buying and manufacturing organizations, the follow-up of orders/styles during the pre-production processes are not fool proof and there are several myths which need to be redressed claims. Production merchandiser prepares the TNA by keeping things in mind like production capacity, lead time of buyer, holidays etc.

 

5. Communication

Communication is a most important aspect of any export order process. In production merchandising there are various tools used to communicate with buyers in order to proceed further in export order like quality manual, purchase order, packing list, color way communication, style no. tech pack. Buyer communicates each and every aspect of on-going and future style with merchandiser only. Merchandiser must be able to communicate with buyer and with internal departments effectively to process the export order effectively. There are several modes of communication like telephone, email, actual meetings, fax etc. merchandiser must aware of etiquettes to use these modes of communication.

 

6. Coordination

Coordination is the major aspect of fashion merchandising, one need to coordinate with all the departments within the organization and outside the organization in order to run the export order successfully. Coordinating with other department is the one of the major responsibility of a production merchandiser. A production merchandiser has to coordinate with the other departments so as to complete its job and to following the production activities. Factory merchandiser uses different formats and documents to coordinate within the factory like BOM, production file, tech pack. Some of them are need to create by factory merchandiser some of them are provides by buyer. This type of coordination referred to as internal coordination. Production merchandiser needs to coordinate with buyer as buyer also takes the follow up from merchandiser. Merchandiser provides the formats to the buyer like production status report, packing list, TNA etc.

 

7. Sourcing

For garment export house fabric and trims are the raw material which needs to be outsourced. Sourcing is basically determining the most cost efficient vendor of materials, production, or finished goods at the specified quality and service level. It is closely associated and an important part of apparel merchandiser’s responsibility. Materials basically include piece goods that will be cut and converted into the garments. Not only does the fabric have to be appropriate and suited to the garment design and end use but it must also be made available at the precise time when it is needed. Thus, lead times play an important role in the sourcing and placing orders for the materials required for the production. Lead times required from a supplier can vary from as little as two weeks to as much as nine months. Trims are all the materials other than the piece goods that are required to make up a garment. Findings require the same careful planning as the piece goods. As soon as the fabric is in the stores, then only the sourcing of the threads start because the color of the thread must match the buyer’s requirements. The ordering of the threads must be complete by the time fabric is cut ready to be feeded to the sewing lines. Sourcing department along with apparel merchandiser plays the vital role to execute and shipment of export order successfully. Merchandiser must make sure that all approvals related to fabric and trims should be coordinated with the sourcing department in given timeframe.