Production Merchandising




 Introduction

Production Merchandising is a function of multiple activities performed by a person which are either parallel or inter connected. Some of them are interdependent and others are independent of each other. Merchandising involves planning and execution of the export order with the right place, at the right time, in the right quantities, at the right price. It is concerned with all the activities necessary to provide buyers with the merchandise they want to buy and when and where they want it and at prices they can afford and are willing to pay. Hence it involves making execution plans, understanding the buyers need regarding quality and cost, follow up of running order, effective communication with buyer. The term ‘Merchandising’ has always been a magic word and hot pick of the cake in the field of apparel and fashion merchandising. Most of the persons who want to pursue a career in the apparel field want to become a merchandiser. What makes this so much attractive and important is—reputation, responsibility and career growth.

  

Functions of production merchandiser

1. Product development

Product development is the business policy of the organization which includes the development of the new designs and styles within the organization. This activity brings the more business to organization, by showing pro-activeness in design development buyer also impress. The role of production merchandiser in this activity plays very important role. Production merchandiser must keep update to buyer time to time about the product development done by organization. Motivate the buyer to give the design development to the organization instead of doing themselves. Whenever buyer visits to the organization, presentation of new color, prints, embroidery patterns and desk loom developments is done by production merchandiser. To present new designs developed by product development department. Try to convince the buyer to select the designs from presentation.  A very good presentation and convincing ability of production merchandiser brings more business to the organization.

 

2. Sampling

Sampling is one of the main processes in Garment manufacturing and it plays vital role in attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally places the order once satisfied with the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. Sampling is the most crucial and most important stage of fashion merchandising. Sampling department makes samples on the basis of the specification and requirement by the buyer. Sampling in merchandising may be defined as “The concept, perception and ideas of fashion designer developed into product samples, in systematic stages of product development, with technical and quality clarity in a development.” The role of merchandiser plays the crucial role as the follow up of the samples is important aspect. Buyer passes some comments to the merchandiser after submitting the sample. These comments are needed to understand and communicate with the sampling department. Get changes from the sampling and resubmit to buyer. Follow up with buyer to get approvals of the sample.

 

3. Costing

Costing is the very dynamic process, and it is the most important function performed by merchandiser. Merchandiser should have knowledge of costing and it’s calculations. While calculating the cost of the garment merchandiser keeps following things in mind.

 

Fabric consumption

Trims

CMT

Value added services: printing, embroidery, washing, applique

Testing

Transportation and logistics cost

Profit of the manufacturing organization

Currency exchange rate

The role of merchandiser does not end only after calculating the cost, but after quoting the cost merchandiser need to negotiate with buyer on cost of the garment.

 

4. Planning (Time and action calendar)

Production merchandising is an interdependent activity. Successful merchandising is outcome of effective preparation and follows up of time and action calendar by all departments. Time and Action Calendar or TNA, a most important jargon used in fashion merchandising, it is an effective way of coordination and following up of important milestones in preproduction processes to ensure timely delivery within stipulated delivery date. Despite claims of being practically in use by most buying and manufacturing organizations, the follow-up of orders/styles during the pre-production processes are not fool proof and there are several myths which need to be redressed claims. Production merchandiser prepares the TNA by keeping things in mind like production capacity, lead time of buyer, holidays etc.

 

5. Communication

Communication is a most important aspect of any export order process. In production merchandising there are various tools used to communicate with buyers in order to proceed further in export order like quality manual, purchase order, packing list, color way communication, style no. tech pack. Buyer communicates each and every aspect of on-going and future style with merchandiser only. Merchandiser must be able to communicate with buyer and with internal departments effectively to process the export order effectively. There are several modes of communication like telephone, email, actual meetings, fax etc. merchandiser must aware of etiquettes to use these modes of communication.

 

6. Coordination

Coordination is the major aspect of fashion merchandising, one need to coordinate with all the departments within the organization and outside the organization in order to run the export order successfully. Coordinating with other department is the one of the major responsibility of a production merchandiser. A production merchandiser has to coordinate with the other departments so as to complete its job and to following the production activities. Factory merchandiser uses different formats and documents to coordinate within the factory like BOM, production file, tech pack. Some of them are need to create by factory merchandiser some of them are provides by buyer. This type of coordination referred to as internal coordination. Production merchandiser needs to coordinate with buyer as buyer also takes the follow up from merchandiser. Merchandiser provides the formats to the buyer like production status report, packing list, TNA etc.

 

7. Sourcing

For garment export house fabric and trims are the raw material which needs to be outsourced. Sourcing is basically determining the most cost efficient vendor of materials, production, or finished goods at the specified quality and service level. It is closely associated and an important part of apparel merchandiser’s responsibility. Materials basically include piece goods that will be cut and converted into the garments. Not only does the fabric have to be appropriate and suited to the garment design and end use but it must also be made available at the precise time when it is needed. Thus, lead times play an important role in the sourcing and placing orders for the materials required for the production. Lead times required from a supplier can vary from as little as two weeks to as much as nine months. Trims are all the materials other than the piece goods that are required to make up a garment. Findings require the same careful planning as the piece goods. As soon as the fabric is in the stores, then only the sourcing of the threads start because the color of the thread must match the buyer’s requirements. The ordering of the threads must be complete by the time fabric is cut ready to be feeded to the sewing lines. Sourcing department along with apparel merchandiser plays the vital role to execute and shipment of export order successfully. Merchandiser must make sure that all approvals related to fabric and trims should be coordinated with the sourcing department in given timeframe.



Garments Pre-Production Activity Check List

 Pre-production process is planning that is done prior to the bulk garment production. That includes samples development and approvals, sourcing and testing raw materials, garment costing, pattern making and process planning. Efficient production can't be reached without the pre-production processes.

Pre-production check list:



The marketing mix: position

Fashion retailing is a dynamic and fluid business and strategy needs to reflect this: creating a competitive advantage in a market sector is an essential part of maintaining the necessary level of interest.

Identifying market position enables a company to determine its strategy and direction in order to present and maintain a strong recognizable brand image and identity to customers. Analysis of market position involves a lot of detail, such as cost control, infrastructure, cost of materials, economies of scale, management skills, availability of personnel and compatibility of manufacturing resources. A fashion retailing strategy should highlight the way in which the business may construct entry barriers to the competition. These can include high switching costs, gaining substantial benefit from economies of scale via sourcing policies; creating exclusive access to distribution channels to prevent others from using them; and the ability to clearly differentiate products. This is linked to the retailer’s ability to buy in bulk and volume and to work with suppliers effectively to create advantages.

Merchandising serves the following purposes

Direct communication with customer regarding day to day activities of business. 

Internal communication with different departments regarding daily activities. 





  • Keeping and maintaining strong relationship with customers.
  • Providing information to different department.
  • Handling different queries of customers.
  • Making samples on customer demand.
  • Generating more customers
  • Research & Development
  • Follow up of samples.
  • Samples approval.
  • Pricing / Costing
  • Targets achieving.
  • Order execution
  • Order booking


The Concept of Textile Merchandising

 Merchandising in textile is not synonymous with merchandising being practiced in consumer product companies. It is much broader in its scope, activities and responsibilities.


Retail Merchandise:

The term merchandising in retailing refers to the total process of stock planning, management and control. The merchandising needs a good numeric skill and ability to make trends, relationships and co-relationship within regular sales and stock. The responsibilities of merchandiser are changes from company to company, according to structure they adopt. The traditional merchandising role is integrated with the buying, which merchandising team has responsible for both the planning and stock allocation. The structure of traditional is shown in figure.



Now a day’s many retailer change the responsibilities of merchandising according to the company, some remove the distribution role and this responsibility is then given to the distribution team separately. By this the retailer can save the cost, more importantly the company can control of the entire process. We have seen many business retailers who applied different parameters to stock management can easily lose on their stock.

Textile Mills and Buying House: 

  • Merchandising can be termed as heart of making a product fail or pass.
  •  
  • Merchandising can be a difference between winning or losing a project/customer. 

  • Merchandising means finding new customers and markets. 

  • Merchandising means retaining the customers and extracting more orders from them.
  •  
  • Merchandising means making the customers delighted/satisfied on one hand and brining profits for the company on other. 

  • Merchandising means making communication bridge between the company and its customers. 

  • Merchandising means completion of project/order placed by the buyer as per its requirements in right time, quality and quantity.


Decoding Washing Labels: What Laundry Symbols on Clothes Really Mean?

 This group of UK washing symbols helps you decide if your clothing is safe to wash in your washing machine, and which setting, and what temperature you should use.


It is generally depicted as a bucket filled with water (except for the ‘Do not wring’ symbol). If the garment is machine washable, then you’ll either see dots or numbers inside the bucket symbol, representing the recommended maximum temperature: one dot means 30 °C (meaning that you have to wash your clothing in cold water), two dots 40 °C (warm water), and four dots 60 °C. In case you see one line drawn underneath the bucket, it means that your piece of clothing should be washed on a synthetic cycle, while two lines represent the gentle or wool wash cycle. If you find the hand wash symbol on your garment’s fabric care label, wash the item by hand at 40 °C or lower, or use your washing machine’s hand wash program.


Bleaching symbols on washing labels

Before you turn to your bottle of bleach to make your whites shine like they used to, it’s worth taking a look at your garment’s fabric care label to see if the clothing can handle bleaching agents.



Drying guidelines on clothing labels

In addition to washing and ironing, the laundry process also includes drying. To prevent your garment from shrinking or becoming misshapen when drying, you can find a number of helpful symbols on the fabric care label, informing you of the most surefire way to dry your clothes without causing any damage to the fabric.



A square with a circle inside means that the item can be safely tumble dried, while the number of dots inside the tumble dry symbol indicates what temperature setting to use: one dot stands for low heat, two dots for medium, and three for high heat setting. No dot means that you can tumble dry your clothes on any heat. If you see a bar below the dryer symbol, then use the ‘Permanent Press’ setting, while two bars mean that you have to use the ‘Delicate’ setting. If the symbol is crossed over, do not tumble dry your garment, but let it dry naturally instead. A square with three vertical lines inside represents drip drying, a single horizontal line in the middle indicates flat drying, and a drooping line means hang to dry.



Ironing symbols on fabric labels

Ironing symbols depict an iron with dots inside representing the maximum temperature that you should use to iron the garment.




Dry cleaning symbols on fabric labels

Some garments are better off being handled by a professional: that’s when dry cleaning comes into the picture. The below symbols are intended to help you decide if your piece of clothing should be dry cleaned, and to tell the dry-cleaner what solvent to use.



Additional dry cleaning instructions

When dealing with your most delicate pieces of clothing, your dry-cleaner appreciates every help they get.
That’s why fabric manufacturers include many dry cleaning symbols on clothing labels, represented by the combination of a circle and a straight line.







Types of Garments Accessories & List of Accessories

Basically in the garments three types of accessories we are using. We are elaborating about garments accessories in details for easy understanding.    

1. Basic accessories;
2. Decorative Accessories;
3. Finishing Accessories;


Basic accessories:

  1. Thread
  2. Zipper
  3. Interlining
  4. Button for example: Snap button, Plastic button, .Metal button.
  5. Label: Main label , Size Label, Wash care label
  6. Motif: Leather, Plastic, Batch Metal
  7. Pocketing fabric
  8. Lining
  9. Velcro
  10. Elastic
  11. Cord
  12. Ribbon
  13. Toggles
  14. Rivet
  15. Collar bone.


Decorative Accessories:

  1. Elastic tape
  2. Buttonhole tape
  3. Piping
  4. Moiré ribbon
  5. Seaming tape
  6. Welted tape
  7. Ribbed tape
  8. Velvet ribbon
  9. Bias binding
  10. Stamped tape
  11. Taffeta ribbon
  12. Galloon
  13. Fringes
  14. Cords
  15. Tassels
  16. Rosettes
  17. Soutache
  18. Pompons

Finishing Accessories:

  1. Hang tag
  2. Price tag
  3. Plastic/ poly bag
  4. Tissue paper
  5. Carton
  6. Scotch tape
  7. PP belt
  8. Tag pin
  9. Plastic clip
  10. Stiker
  11. Butterfly
  12. Collar insert
  13. Back board
  14. Necks insert 

Logistics and outsourcing in the supply chain

 CPFR Models 

Quick response in logistics and SCM ensures product innovation in the market: the logistics supplier can deliver the vision of designers and buyers, reduce and minimize disturbances in the chain and coordinate and consolidate goods, which is especially important when launching new products and ranges. Data collection and the appropriate and relevant technology must be in place for this to work properly. One such example is a Collaborative Planning Forecasting and Replenishment (CPFR) model of supply. CPFR is ‘a business practice which reduces inventory costs whilst improving product availability across the chain. Trading partners share forecast and results data over the Internet. CPFR data analyses data and alerts planners and merchandisers at each company to exceptional situations that may affect delivery or sales performance’ (Hines, 2005). Trading partners collaborate to resolve these exceptions in the chain in order to maintain stock and availability. CPFR models have been replicated and adapted for use by many large, international fashion retailers in order to make suppliers responsible for stock management. Good stock management is crucial to success in the fashion industry.


Future of technology 

Some large, international retailers are investing in new technological models of supply, including retail exchanges and e-tail logistics, such as the global net exchange (GNX) and the worldwide retail exchange (WWRE) developed by Walmart. Technology helps fashion retailers with sales information that can be transferred and acted upon quickly. These include the following: EDI (electronic data information) packages for sharing data between supply chain partners; EPOS – electronic point-of sale data collection from stores; and SBO, which is sales-based ordering technology (orders placed to replenish sold stock). Other technology used in SCM includes electronic tagging radio frequency identification tags. Walmart piloted a study in the USA and UK fashion retailer Marks & Spencer has trialed its use on high-value items such as suits and leather jackets. The tags can be used to achieve good visibility in the chain; retailers such as Benetton, Gap and Esprit use the tags to track stock movement in the supply chain. They can be used during transportation and warehousing so logistics teams can identify stock, size and color without unpacking boxes and by scanning stock that is packaged. It cannot be emphasized enough that good relationships and outsourcing are fundamental to the future success of SCM in the fashion business and improvements in technology may be used to enhance these relationships. The focus is on fashion retailers in the future to provide better value and to create greater responsiveness via partnerships.


http://planningandmerchandising.blogspot.com/

http://planningandmerchandising.blogspot.com/

http://planningandmerchandising.blogspot.com/


ELECTRONIC TAGGING 

 UK retailer Marks & Spencer has trialed the use of electronic tagging radio frequency identification tags on high-value items such as suits and leather jackets.

Garment specifications: sampling

Performance testing

All products developed must pass performance testing requirements. It is usually the responsibility of the supplier to ensure that all products meet, or exceed, the standards required by the retailer. Before finalizing or signing an agreement, it is important that suppliers understand and agree the quality-standard requirements of the retailer. It is normal practice to have both fabric and garments tested before the product is delivered; typically, the testing is done at a third-party testing facility such as Intertek or ITS. At times, the buyers and design team will designate the testing lab. Sometimes the retailer (or buyer) will submit the garments for testing; however, often the buyer will require that the supplier submits the fabric and garments directly to the testing laboratory and then provide them with copies of the test results. Final bulk testing is completed before bulk production of garments commences. Accurate records must be kept by the manufacturer and the retailer in case of any faults or customer complaints. Many retailers also undertake surprise testing on garments after they arrive into the stores. This technique is used to discourage suppliers from submitting garments in bulk that do not match up to the quality approved for 
final production.




‘Successful fashion design in commercial terms is based upon providing what customers want frequently before they realize it. In fashion retailing successful design equals sales. If a garment design sells well, the basic shape will be “milked” and reworked in a variety of fabrics and colors and prints.’


Specialist fabrics 

Some garments will require additional testing, such as items that claim to be flame retardant, water resistant, anti-bacterial and so on. So-called ‘smart’ fabrics are used for sport and other performance activities, which need to be fit for purpose; Teflon-coated, breathable and water-repellent fabrics require rigorous testing before use. Even simple products, such as a T-shirt jersey, for example, require certain dye stuffs to withstand washing and to limit the shrinkage of fabric. Children’s apparel requires additional product safety testing.


GARMENT SAMPLING 

By the time it reaches the mass production stage, each garment style will have been technically engineered in order to be as cost-effective and aesthetically pleasing as possible, reflecting the original model and ideas of the designer.