Merchandise planning is a systematic approach to planning, buying, and selling merchandise to maximize your return on investment (ROI) while simultaneously making merchandise available at the places, times, prices and quantities that the market demands.
Garment machine or garments machinery plays an important role for making the finished product in readymade apparel industry. There are different types of garment machine used duringgarments manufacturing. This article has presented all the garment machine ofapparelindustry with their specifications and functions.
List of Apparel Machinery with Specifications and Functions:
SL No.
Name of Machine
(Company Name)
Function of Machine
Remarks
01
Hand or paddle sewing machine
(Butterfly, China)
Sewing the garments
Working condition
02
Industrial single needle lock stitch machine (Taking, China)
Sewing all types of fabric)
Working condition
03
2-Needle plain sewing machine
(Sunsir, China)
Sewing the garments
Working condition
04
Flat lock sewing machine
(Taking, China)
Used to sew knit fabric
Working condition
05
High speed 2-Needle 5-Thread over lock machine (Taking, China)
Lock the end of fabric by sewing
Working condition
06
Over lock machine (Juki, Japan)
Secure edge of garments
Working condition
07
Button stitch machine
(Consew, Japan)
Attach the button with garments
Working condition
08
Leather cutting (Taking, China)
To cut leather
Working condition
09
Embroidery machine
(Consew, Japan)
Produce design with the help of thread on fabric surface
Working condition
10
Bar taking machine (Taking, China)
Making loop in the pant
Working condition
11
Kansai special machine (Hoseki, China)
Attach elastic to jacket or coat)
Working condition
12
Button hole machine (Taking, China)
Produce hole in the fabric for button attaching
Working condition
13
Snap button machine (TK-Super, China)
Manually attach repeat button
Working condition
14
Dismatic machine
(Butterfly, China)
Sewing the fabric at specific design using different dick
Working condition
15
Rib cutter
Cut off rib of knit garments
Working condition
16
Collar turning and blocking machine (NGAI SHING, China)
Wool is a protein fibre. It is extracted from sheep. There are various types of wool. Marino wool is the best wool fibre because its length is reasonable. Fineness is good here and in most cases it has natural crimp.
Wool fibre
Properties of Wool Fibre:
There are some key properties of wool which are pointed out in the below:
Length,
Fineness,
Elastic property,
Effect of heat,
Cross sectional shape,
Strength and extension,
Appearance,
Effect of chemical,
Effect of biological agents,
End use.
All the above properties have explained in the following:
1. Length:
Length of wool fibre varies from 2 inch to twelve inch depending on type of fibre and the interval length of time of collection.
2. Fineness:
Generally, longer the fibre coarser the fibre. Here, fineness varies from 3-15 dtex that is corser than cotton fibre.
3. Elastic property:
Wool is the best natural fibre in respect of good recovery from deformation.
4. Effect of heat:
Burns with burning hair smell with specific sound.
5. Cross sectional shape:
It is roughly circular or elliptical in cross section. Some fibres are solid and some fibres have small intermittent holes which are called Kemp fibres.
6. Strength and extension:
Wool is weak fibr. Its tenacity varies from 1 to 15 g/dtex but very high extension at break which is 35%.
7. Appearance:
It is characterized by crimp and scales. Due to crimp it is bulkier and wormer. Due to scle it has differential friction which is not present in cotton. Due to scales and extensibility, its feeling property is good. Color varies depending n the types of wool.
8. Effect of chemical:
In case of water, moisture regain of wool is 19% and when wet strength reduces about 20%.
In case of alkali, alkali degrades the wool fibre, changes color and reduces strength. Treatment of wool in 5% NaOH solution dissolves the fibre.
In case of acid, wool is safe in acid. In carbonizing wool 5% sulfuric acid solution is used to remove vegetable and cellulosic materials.
In case of solvent, wool is safe in solvent also. Hence dry cleaning is popular for woolen garments.
9. Effect of biological agents:
It’s attacked by moth, wind, rain and sunlight degrades the wool fibre.
10. End use:
Critical care is needed for the woolen garments because it may shrink during laundering or washing.
Garment washingis the vast place for the textile engineersor chemical engineers to prove their capability in today’s ready made garmentbusiness. New comers of this sector have to learn so many in the earlier stage of their job to sustain here. As a result, so many questions have arisen in their mind. As its importance, this article has presented some common questions with their answer.
Garment washing plant
Basic Questions of Garment Washing:
There are some common questions in garment washingwhich are frequently asked by the new comer of this sector. Those questions have pointed out in the below with their answer:
1. Why de-size or de-sizing process is important in garment washing?
De-sizing is so much important due to the below reasons:
To remove the sizing materials.
To remove the starch.
To increase the water absorption capacity.
To modify for scouring and bleaching.
To increase the affinity of fabric to chemicals.
To increase the luster after dyeing and printing.
2. What types of problem arise at de-sizing process?
The following problems have arisen during de-sizing process:
If the water is less crease mark will come.
If antiback stainer is less, back staining is more that affect the pocket.
Garments will dull if back staining is more.
If the de-size process will not good, the next process will be affected.
3. Why enzyme process is so important in garment washing?
Some important reasons for which enzyme processis so much important in garments wash:
To remove the colorfrom fabric.
To achieve desired shade.
To achieve cast color.
To achieve desired abrasion.
To increase the cleanliness of garments.
4. What types of problems occurred during enzyme process?
There are some common problems which are seen during enzymeprocess mentioned in the below:
If water less, crease mark will come.
If enzyme time is more, seam will be damaged.
If enzyme percentage is more that time indigo will lose before abrasion coming.
If enzyme percentage will less, time required more and garments will be damaged.
5. Why bleaching process is important in garment washing?
For the below reasons, bleachinghas great importance in garments washing:
To remove the natural color.
To clean up the garments.
To remove stain from the apparel.
To get the desired shade provided by the buyer.
6. What types of problem happened during bleaching stages?
There are some problems which are frequently happened during bleaching process:
If the water percentage is low that time crease mark will come.
If bleach percentage is more, garments will loose the color very quickly.
If the machine will not running at the time of bleach added, bleachspot will come there.
If the machineRPM is high then garments shade will be uneven.
7. Mention some problems that happened for resin application in garment washing.
Those problems are mentioned in the below:
If the resin application is more on specific area that garments will tear.
If we use the same process more than one time then tear may come.
If oven time is more, tear may come.
If oven temperature is excessively high, tear m ay come.
If we used resin more, garments will hard more.
Due to using of resin, garments will be unwanted spotted.
Due to using of resin, sometimes pocket may damage.
8. What are the processes normally used in the dry process section of garment washing?
All the important dry processes of garments washinghave pointed out in the below:
Hand sand,
Sand blasting,
Whisker,
Destroy,
PP spray,
Tagging,
Grinding,
Crinkle,
3D crinkle,
Heat pressing,
PP rubbing,
Resin spray,
Pocket marking,
Seammarking,
Centre crease,
Pigment spray,
Crimping,
PP spot,
Bleach spot,
Resin spot etc.
9. Which types of wash mainly applied in garment washing?
There are various types of wash applied in garmentswashing. Those are in the following:
Light wash,
Rinse wash,
Sand wash,
Garment wash,
Enzyme wash,
Bleach wash,
Enzyme bleach wash,
Heavy enzyme + stone wash,
Heavy enzyme + stonewash + bleach wash,
Softener silicon wash,
Acid wash,
Tie wash,
Towel bleach wash,
Crystal wash,
Rubber ball wash etc.
10. Point out some problems that happened during garment washing.
Some common problems of garments washingare in the below:
Fabricstrength sometimes less.
Zippercolor changed due to alkali solution.
Fabrics weight less.
If the garments load is high then crease mark will come.
If garments load is high at hydro then crease mark will come.
If time is more at hydro, garments will be damaged by its tension.
A successful buyer negotiation outcome does not mainly occur through luck but by following a clear process. The process which reflects the various levels of knowledge of the subject of negotiation. Agreement merchandiser has to do a lot of task to negotiate the buyer. This article has presented a details discussion on buyer negotiation process which are deeply followed in ready made garments sector.
Garment buyer negotiation by merchandiser
Buyer Negotiation Process Followed by Garment Merchandiser:
An effective buyer negotiation can be made by following some key factors which are mentioned in the below:
Researching the needs of both parties,
Preparation,
Offer,
Discussion,
Counter and revised offers,
Summaries,
Agree and commit.
All the factors have explained in the following:
1. Researching the needs of both parties:
The higher the knowledge a buyer has of their own and the apparel merchandiser’s requirements, the better able they are to construct an acceptable solution. The buyer must be clear about both the department mark-up to be placed on the product cost price and the intended retail selling price so that he can judge the viability of the garment merchandiser’s products. He should also have sufficient product construction knowledge to understand how changes can be made to achieve better value in the product.
Frequently the garment merchandiser will make suggestions to try to bring the cost price closer to the buyer’s target. However an experienced buyer can speed up the process by making suggestions which will be acceptable to her. Lead time is another lever for buyer negotiation with differing operational issues for both parties. If the buyer starts the sourcing process early enough he may have enough time in hand to use extended lead time as a bargaining tool.
The process of researching needs does not stop once the buyer negotiation is underway s the body language and facial expression of both parties will signal their reactions of the ongoing discussion. Successful buyers will listen to and watch the garment merchandisers carefully and making judgments about how to trade benefits with them. In addition to listening and observation skills, buyers need to be able to use questions effectively. Open questions require a respondent to elaborate which may provide the buyer will valuable knowledge on how to proceed when meeting an apparel merchandiser. Closed questions can be used to generate specific responses.
2.Preparation:
Effective preparation is also very important to successful communication which ultimately makes easy to do buyer negotiation effectively. The particular preparation required will vary according to the nature of meeting but some factors are always important. Meeting should begin on time and follow a clear agenda with a realistic amount of time to accommodate the work. Where there is an existing relationship with a garment merchandiser, a file containing the relevant notes and documentation relating to the orders should be read prior to the meeting and taken in for reference.
Garment merchandisers meeting are usually held in uncluttered or empty rooms or offices to avoid any distraction from the business of the meeting. It is also usual for there to be two people from buying in the meeting so that buyer can have an objective view point available while personally involved in the buyer negotiation.
It is essential that the buyer also has identified the maximum and minimum positions that he will accept for a range of factors including product price, order size and lead time.
3. Offer:
Having identified where the respective position lies between them. The buyer and garment merchandiser can make specific proposals to set the boundaries of negotiation (buyer negotiation). It is unlikely that many of the offers initially made will end up being accepted. So both parties allow for some man oeuvre. This is the opportunity for the buyer to being trading what is of relatively low value for him but of more value to the apparel merchandiser.
4. Discussion:
The likely framework of a final settlement will emerge in the discussion as each side probes the other ad makes suggestions. Answer to the suggestions can be revealing with choice of words and tone signaling interest of reluctance and should be noted as potential bargaining material. There will be areas on which one side can move more than the other and vice versa. It is important for the buyer to make a note of which ones provide the greatest and least opportunities for flexibly the trade- off later in the buyer negotiation.
5. Counter and revised offers:
This is the real bargaining where elements of the order such as numbers of units, product details, lead time and so on are being decided in the context of an overall cost price. The buyer should make firm proposals and be cautious of offering concessions unless she is getting one in return. The final element that will pull all of the other variables together will be the cost price which is agreed at the end. Although the bargaining may be tough, the spirit of the communication should be remaining friendly and not adversarial. Parities are more likely to co-operate if they are being treated fairly and responsibility.
6. Summaries:
It is vital to summaries at key stages through the buyer negotiation when significant points are agreed to avoid losing early gains as to ensure that both parties understand each other. With so many potential variables included can be easily forgotten unless there is a record of agreement through. Records will also provide both sides with an explanation of how the deal was constructed should a particular variable become contentious at a later date.
7. Agree and commit:
It is very important to make an effective buyer negotiation job. Once the parties have agreed an order, they have to communicate the details to other functions. The garment merchandiser may need to book production space, order fabric or trimmings and source labels. The buyer will need to inform the apparel merchandiser of the retail selling value of the order so that a track can be kept on spending.
More questions related this topic:
What is buyer negotiation?
Describe about the buyer price negotiation process.
Mention some buyer negotiation tactics.
Mention some buyer negotiation skills.
Discuss about the purchasing negotiation process steps.
Discuss about the vendor-buyer negotiation process.
