Definition of Fabric Defects

Slack End - The result of a loose or broken end puckering as it is gradually woven into a fabric.

Crease Line - A mark left in a fabric a crease has been removed. It may be caused by mechanical damage to the fibers at the fold, by variation in treatment due to the construction along the fold or by disturbance of the fabric structure.

Coarse Pick - A pick of filling whose diameter is noticeably greater than that normal to the fabric.

Knot - A place where two ends of yarn have been tied together.

Color Fly - Fibers of a different color appearing in a yarn or fabric as contamination.

End Out - A line, running warp-way through part or all of piece, caused by the absence of a warp thread.

Hang Thread - A thread left hanging on the face of a fabric. The most common cause is the failure of a weaver to clip the excess yarn after repairing a broken end and/or the cloth inspector’s failure to remove the excess yarn.

Double Pick - Two picks in a single shed where only one is called for by the design of the fabric.

Burl Mark - A distortion resulting from some Superfluous material such as a thick slub, waste or wild yarn being removed with a burling tool.

Broken End - Where a warp yarn has ruptured and been repaired often characterized by the broken and being woven into the fabric.

Miss pick - Where the weave design is broken by the absence of a pick of filling.

Coarse End - An end whose diameter is noticeably greater than that normal to the fabric.

Jerk In - An extra piece of filling yarn jerked by the shuttle into the fabric along with a regular pick of filling. On conventional looms, they generally are confined to the battery side, the most common cause being the failure of the thread-holding mechanism to hold the filling from the out-going bobbin long enough for the temple thread cutter to cut the yarn after a filling.

Thick Place - A place across the width containing more picks or heavier filling than that normal to the fabric.

Thin Place - A place across the width containing less picks or lighter filling than that normal to the fabric.

Apparel Merchandiser Should Know

If you want to select your career as a merchandiser, at first you should know about what is merchandising? Who is a Merchandiser? How to become a apparel merchandiser? Here you will get all of the techniques to become a successful garment merchandiser. Let’s read and prepare you for achieving your dream career.

Merchandising: 
Merchandising is the presentation of new products. All aspects of a product, including design, quality, and consumer demand must be considered.

Requirements to be a Good Merchandiser in the Apparel Industry or Buying House:
Everyone have a dream to be a good merchandiser, anywhere in the apparel industry or buying house. From the student life they are try to know information about how to prepare yourself to be a successful merchandiser?

Anybody can acquire good knowledge in apparel merchandising is becoming an asset for the garment sector and his limit of working experiences is expending all over the world. And within a short time his monthly remuneration will be surpassed his expectation.

Do you want to become a successful merchandiser? Then you should maintain some basic requirements to prepare yourself. Here I will mention the different ways to become a good merchandiser in buying house or garments industry…….

1. If you want to become a good merchandiser then educational background must be needed. Related course must be considered.

2. For getting this dream job, you should have good knowledge in both English written and spoken.

3. Knowledge about Computer literacy, Know the e-mail writing techniques and internet browsing.

4. Excellent behaviors, should be smart, strong personality and intelligent.

5. Know all fibers like:

• Natural fibers
• Animal fibers
• Mineral fibers
• Synthetic fibers

6. Know all types of woven and knitted fabrics weaving / knitting patterns.

• Woven fabrics: The weaving patterns are Poplin, Oxford, Twill, Dobby, Jacquard, Corduroy, Checks, and Plaids.
• Knitted fabrics: The knitting patterns are Single jersey, Rib, Interlock Pique, Fleece, Terry, Variable ribs, Drop needle etc.

7. Know all types of printing. These are:

• All-over printing
• Screen print
• Reactive print
• Print with plastisol dye stuffs
• Discharge print
• Pigment print
• Flock print
• Foil print
• Lurex print
• Embossed print
• Heat transfer print
• Hi-density print
• Dip-dye print

8. Should know the difference between all types of embroideries.

• Plain embroidery with one color
• Plain embroidery with multi color
• Embroidery with lurex thread
• Embroidery on printing
• Embroidery with application
• Embroidery with application over application
• Embroidery with laser cut design
• Embroidery with sequins setting

9. Should know all samples and their implication. Types of samples are:

• Proto sample
• Fit sample
• Size set sample
• Counter sample
• Sealed/Red/Yellow label sample
• Pre- production sample
• Lab test sample
• Flammability test sample
• Photo shoot sample
• Salesman sample
• Top over production sample
• Shipment sample

10. Know all Lab test requirements:

• Shrinkage/ Dimensional stability test
• Pealing test
• Crocking / rubbing test (Dry/wet)
• Perspiration test
• Color fastness test to light
• Cross staining test
• Washing fastness test
• Saliva test (for children’s wear)
• Tensile test
• Test of brushing of fabric
• Test of presence of AZO, PVC, Formaldehyde or any other carsegonic substance in the garments.

11. Keep record of all yarn, fabric, and garments accessories supplier.

12. Good knowledge of Exporting and Importing countries

13. Knowledge on duty rates and customs regulations

14. Know all sea and freight forwarder.

15. Know all feeder and mother vessel schedule.

16. Keep updated records of container charges (20 feet, 40 feet, 40 feet high cube, 45 feet high cube)

17. Keep records of all garment trimmings and accessories like as Embroidery, Hanger, Labels, Laces, Elastic, Poly, Cartons and Garments manufacturing etc.

18. Keep records of all Spinning mills, Knitting mills, Dyeing factories with their M/C and production capacity.

19. Acquire good knowledge on consumption and costing.

20. Be sincere about packing list, assortment, carton and buyer instructions.

21. Take all updated news like inputs- outputs, daily garments production records from the factory manager.

22. Good knowledge about usual Raw materials, Apparel Inspection System and Quality Management System.

23. Clear conception of the usual potential Quality problem in Apparel merchandising.

24. Know all technical or commercial terms for accurate and efficient communication.

25. Should know about the Quota system, Free-trade, shipping and Banking documentation and regulations.

26. Know all buyers compliance and various standards.

27. Keep knowledge about order procedures of international buyers

28. Keep commitment with Buyers and Suppliers.

29. Make a habit of replying all mails without wasting any time.

30. Be sincere to your job and duties.

31. Never do anything on assumption always get clarification and keep written records with date and time.

32. Always show positive attitude to resolve all problem.

33. Always check all booking of fabrics and accessories before and after sending; if possible get it checked by third person.

34. Excellent power of motivation to improve public relations.

For become a successful merchandiser, you should follow and try to maintain above all these points or requirements. These requirements are very essential for the job preparation. Also needed some basic knowledge and skills for a garment merchandiser. These requirements, basic knowledge and skills will be helpful to get Merchandising career easily.

Carton Square Meter Rate Calculation

Introduction:

Carton consumption is a very important matter in ready made garments sector. Every garments merchandiser should have clear idea about it. Though there are so many garments merchandisers, whom have no correct idea about carton consumption. As its importance in garments merchandising, today I will present here an easy method for carton consumption calculation in apparel industry.

You may follow Fabric Consumption Calculation Formula for Different Apparel

Carton Box:

Carton box is made by using ply board. Ply board can be 3ply, 5ply or 7ply. Carton box is needed to deliver the finished goods to the buyer. It should be strong enough to protect the finished goods. Goods may damage during transportation if the quality of carton box is not good and ultimately buyer will complain if there’s any damage in the goods. At present, some buyer asks to do busting test of carton box to ensure the right quality of carton box. It should be noted that, every carton boxes should have two ply boards to increase product security.

Carton Consumption Calculation Method in Garments Industry:

Here, carton consumption means “consumption of ply board”. Because, carton box is made by using ply board. Before calculating ply board consumption or carton consumption, a garments merchandiser should confirm the following information:

1. Length of carton in cm,
2. Width of carton in cm,
3. Height of carton in cm.

Now by using the below formula, a garment merchandiser can easily calculate ply board consumption or carton consumption in apparel industry.

Now, I will submit an example here to remove your all the confusions from the above discussion.

Example:

Suppose, a 7 ply carton having length 60cm, width 40cm and height 20cm. Now calculate ply board consumption or carton consumption for 300pcs carton box.

Solution:

Here,

Length of carton- 60cm,
Width of carton- 40cm,
Height of carton- 20cm,
Total carton-300pcs.

So,

Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter),

{(Length + Width + Allowance) X (Width + Height + Allowance) X 2}

= .................................................................................................................

                                                  10000


{(60+ 40+ 6) x (40+ 20+ 4) x 2}

=........................................................

                            10000

= 1.36 square meter per pc carton.
So,

For 1pc carton, 7 ply board needs 2.74 square meters.

And,

For 300 pcs carton, 7 ply board needs (1.36 × 300) = 408 square meters.

How to Measure Garments Button Ligne/ Button Length ?

What is Button Ligne?

A button's ligne, refers to a button's size. The word ligne, is a French word that became the standard reference used by German button manufacturers in the early eighteenth century. Ligne is expressed as “L” which is the internationally recognized standard. Consensus at the time was that a "ligne" measured the inside diameter of a "round wick folded flat." One inch is equal to 40 English ligne, 11 French ligne, and 25.5 mm.

Measuring a button - When measuring buttons, we generally are referring to the diameter of the button.   A one inch diameter is called a 40-ligne, which can also be written as 40 Line or simply 40L.

Button Size Measurement Method in Garments Sector:

To measure the button size, we have to use ligne.

We Know,

1 inch = 25.4 mm = 40L

So, 1L = 0.635 mm

Button Ligne (L) = Button Diameter (mm)/0.635

Example-01:

If the button diameter is 14.20 mm then what will be the size of button?

Solution:

Here,

Button diameter = 14.20 mm,

So,

ButtonLigne(L) = Button Diameter (mm)/0.635

= 14.20 / 0.635

= 22 L

Different Ligne Button Used In Different Garments :

Typically shirt buttons range from 13 ligne on the Collar (if button down), 15 on the Sleeve, and 16 thru 20 ligne are generally used on the placket.  Pant buttons generally have a 22 or 24 ligne on the front closure, and either a 24, 27 or 28 ligne .On the back pockets.  Men’s Tailored Suits generally have a 24-ligne button on the sleeve and pant closure, and a 32 ligne on the Jacket closure, some double breasted suits use a 34 or 36 Ligne.

Button Quantities

Buttons are for the most part priced and sold by the gross or GG. One gross equals 144 individual buttons & also 1 GG equals 1728 individual buttons.  Although some high fashion buttons are priced by the piece or by the dozen, the standard unit we use at is gross.

Button Holes

This is in reference to the number of holes in the button. Buttons can be made with 2 holes, 3- holes, 4-holes and even 5-holes.  Menswear items typically are 4-hole, and Women’s clothing typically has 2-holes.  The button holes are frequently recessed from the edge, forming a “center well”.