Fusing Process Applied in Apparel Industry

Fusing Process in Garments:

Fusing process is one kinds of alternative method of fabric joining which is vastly used to attach the interlining. At present, apparel manufacturing cannot be imagined without fusing process. As its importance, this article has presented a details discussion on fusing process with its classification and defects.

Fusing Machine

Types of Fusing in Garments:

There are three types of fusing process used in garments which are mentioned in the below:

1. Reverse fusing,
2. Sandwich fusing,
3. Double fusing.

All the above processes have explained in the following:

1. Reverse fusing:

In this process, the fabric of interlining is spread on the fusing bed and the part consists of resin is directed upward. Then the fabric of garments is spread on the resonated part of fabric and fusing is done there. This is called reverse fusing. In this process, the area of interlining is comparatively small than the fabric of apparel, as a result proper spreading is difficult here.

2. Sandwich fusing:

Generally, fusing is done by continuous fusing machine where the heat is applied from both sides of fabric. In this process, two pairs of fabrics are fused i.e. the two interlinings are placed between or in the middle of two fabrics of apparel. If the heat and pressure are not applied properly then four layers may be joined due to the effect of striking back during fusing. By using this process, the production can be increased but needs more time. It may have unsatisfactory in fused garments.

3. Double fusing:

In this process, two types of interlining are joined with the garment fabrics in a step during fusing. There is needed to control the temperature during fusing and it must be able to set the interlinings parts and garment parts properly. This type of fusing is generally done in collar and the front part of jacket.

Defects of Fusing Process:

There are mainly two types of faults found during fusing. Those are explained in the below:

1. Striking back:

When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have the control to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly during fusing so that the resin is passed through the lower part of fabric. It is called striking back.

2. Striking through:

When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have the control to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly during fusing so that the resin is passed through the upper part of fabric. It is called striking through.

List of Garment Machine with Specifications and Functions

Garment Machine:

Garment machine or garments machinery plays an important role for making the finished product in readymade apparel industry. There are different types of garment machine used during garments manufacturing. This article has presented all the garment machine of apparel industry with their specifications and functions.

List of Apparel Machinery with Specifications and Functions:

SL No.	Name of Machine (Company Name)	Function of Machine	Remarks
01	Hand or paddle sewing machine (Butterfly, China)	Sewing the garments	Working condition
02	Industrial single needle lock stitch machine (Taking, China)	Sewing all types of fabric)	Working condition
03	2-Needle plain sewing machine (Sunsir, China)	Sewing the garments	Working condition
04	Flat  lock sewing machine (Taking, China)	Used to sew knit fabric	Working condition
05	High speed 2-Needle 5-Thread over lock machine (Taking, China)	Lock the end of fabric by sewing	Working condition
06	Over lock machine (Juki, Japan)	Secure edge of garments	Working condition
07	Button stitch machine (Consew, Japan)	Attach the button with garments	Working condition
08	Leather cutting (Taking, China)	To cut leather	Working condition
09	Embroidery machine (Consew, Japan)	Produce design with the help of thread on fabric surface	Working condition
10	Bar taking machine (Taking, China)	Making loop in the pant	Working condition
11	Kansai special machine (Hoseki, China)	Attach elastic to jacket or coat)	Working condition
12	Button hole machine (Taking, China)	Produce hole in the fabric for button attaching	Working condition
13	Snap button machine (TK-Super, China)	Manually attach repeat button	Working condition
14	Dismatic machine (Butterfly, China)	Sewing the fabric at specific design using different dick	Working condition
15	Rib cutter	Cut off rib of knit garments	Working condition
16	Collar turning and blocking machine (NGAI SHING, China)	Used for collar finishing	Working condition
17	Fusing machine (Shanghai jieshi clothing machine co. ltd., China)	Used for finishing collar lining	Working condition
18	Computerized embroidery machine (Hoseki, China)	Making design with thread by using computer	Working condition
19	Band knife cutting machine (Oshima, China)	Used to cut off fabric at small size	Working condition
20	Fashion Maker Desmatic machine (Singer, China)	Sewing the fabric at specific design using different disk	Working condition
21	Straight knife cutting machine (FJM Dalian, China)	Used to cut off fabric	Working condition

Wool Fibre | Properties of Wool Fibre

Wool Fibre:

Wool is a protein fibre. It is extracted from sheep. There are various types of wool. Marino wool is the best wool fibre because its length is reasonable. Fineness is good here and in most cases it has natural crimp.

Wool fibre

Properties of Wool Fibre:

There are some key properties of wool which are pointed out in the below:

1. Length,
2. Fineness,
3. Elastic property,
4. Effect of heat,
5. Cross sectional shape,
6. Strength and extension,
7. Appearance,
8. Effect of chemical,
9. Effect of biological agents,
10. End use.

All the above properties have explained in the following:

1. Length:

Length of wool fibre varies from 2 inch to twelve inch depending on type of fibre and the interval length of time of collection.

2. Fineness:

Generally, longer the fibre coarser the fibre. Here, fineness varies from 3-15 dtex that is corser than cotton fibre.

3. Elastic property:

Wool is the best natural fibre in respect of good recovery from deformation.

4. Effect of heat:

Burns with burning hair smell with specific sound.

5. Cross sectional shape:

It is roughly circular or elliptical in cross section. Some fibres are solid and some fibres have small intermittent holes which are called Kemp fibres.

6. Strength and extension:

Wool is weak fibr. Its tenacity varies from 1 to 15 g/dtex but very high extension at break which is 35%.

7. Appearance:

It is characterized by crimp and scales. Due to crimp it is bulkier and wormer. Due to scle it has differential friction which is not present in cotton. Due to scales and extensibility, its feeling property is good. Color varies depending n the types of wool.

8. Effect of chemical:

In case of water, moisture regain of wool is 19% and when wet strength reduces about 20%.

In case of alkali, alkali degrades the wool fibre, changes color and reduces strength. Treatment of wool in 5% NaOH solution dissolves the fibre.

In case of acid, wool is safe in acid. In carbonizing wool 5% sulfuric acid solution is used to remove vegetable and cellulosic materials.

In case of solvent, wool is safe in solvent also. Hence dry cleaning is popular for woolen garments.

9. Effect of biological agents:

It’s attacked by moth, wind, rain and sunlight degrades the wool fibre.

10. End use:

Critical care is needed for the woolen garments because it may shrink during laundering or washing.