Sunday, May 14, 2023

Flow Chart of Garments Manufacturing Process

Garments Manufacturing: A complete garment has to face several processes from its order receiving to shipment. During garments manufacturing, a process flow chart must be needed to complete an order easily. Also, a process flow chart helps to understand a garment manufacturing method that how the raw materials are converted into the wearable garments.

 


A basic garment manufacturing flow chart is presented in the below:

 

Design

Pattern Making

Fit Sample Making

Production Pattern Making

Grading

Marker Making

Fabric Spreading

Fabric Cutting

Cutting Parts Sorting or Bundling

Sewing

Garments Inspection

Garments Ironing and Finishing

Final Inspection

Garments Packing

Cartooning

Shipment

 

Each process of garments manufacturing flow chart is discussed in the below with the details:

 

1. Design: Design is provided by the buyer. After placing an order buyer send the technical sheet and art-work of an order to the merchandiser. This process is done by both manually or by using computer.

2. Pattern Making:  By following technical sheet and art-work, pattern of each garment style should be made. It’s done by both manually and by using computerized method.

3. Fit Sample Making: The main target of making a fit sample is to follow the details instruction about that garments style. After making it’s sent to the buyer to rectify. It’s done by manually.

4. Production Pattern Making: For bulk production, allowance added here with net dimension. Production Pattern Making is done by both manually and by using computer.

5. Grading: During an order confirmation, the buyer suggests about the size ratio of that order. So that order should be graded according to the buyer’s instruction. Grading is done by manually or by using computer.

6. Marker Making: Marker is a very thin paper which contains all the parts of a particular garment. To make the cutting process easy, it’s must be needed. Marker making process can be done by both manually and by using computer.

7. Fabric Spreading: To cut the fabric properly fabric is spread in lay form. Fabric Spreading is done by manually or by using computerized method.

8. Fabric Cutting: Fabrics have to cut here according to marker of garments. Fabric Cutting process is done by using manual method or computerized method.

9. Cutting Parts Sorting or Bundling: Here, cutting parts have to sort out or make bundling to send these easily into the next process. This process is done by manually.

10. Sewing: All the parts of a garment are joined here to make a complete garment. Sewing process is done by manually.

11. Garments Inspection: After completing sewing, inspection should be done here to make fault free garments. Garments Inspection is done by using manual method.

12. Garments Ironing and Finishing: Here garments are treated by steam; also required finishing should be completed here. This process is done by using manual method.

13. Final Inspection: Finally, the complete garments are inspected here according to the

buyer’s specification. Final Inspection is done by manual method.

14. Garments Packing: Complete garments are packed here by using buyers instructed poly bag. Garments packing are done by using manual method.

15. Cartooning: To minimize the damages of garments, all the garments must cartooned by maintaining buyers’ instruction. This process is done by manually.

16. Shipment: After completing all the required processes it’s finally send to the buyer

Sunday, November 6, 2022

What is the difference between Merchandise, Merchandiser & Merchandising



1. Merchandise

Merchandise means personal or commercial goods or commodities, bought and sold in retail or wholesale. Any product on which organization is working to buy, sell or to manufacture is known as merchandise.


2. Merchandiser

Merchandiser act as a bridge between the Buying house and the manufacturing unit. Actually, one’s main responsibility is to make and market the product. A merchandiser is a person responsible to address the planning, production, promotion, and distribution of merchandise in the industry and meet the customer’s needs and demands. Merchandiser is also known as merchant.


3. Merchandising:

The word “MERCHANDISING” evolves from Merchandise (The Merchandise means the goods that are bought and sold in business). Hence merchandising is a process in which goods are purchased and sold at the agreed price, at the decided date with the right quality. Merchandising function involves all activities linked with buying and selling of goods.


Example:

Suppose a factory is involved in making a long sleeve flannel shirt. Buyer has given an order of making 50000 pcs.

Here many people will be involved in making that product. Here merchandise is shirt; merchandiser will be people who will deal with buyer and factory people to make merchandise as per buyer requirement. While making the product as per buyer requirement merchandiser will do a lot of activities and these activities are known as merchandising activities.

Terminology for Defining Visual Merchandising and Display

Accent Lighting: lighting technique that emphasizes, highlights, spotlights, or focuses on specific areas of the store, merchandise displays, or focal points of a display.

Add-on-Sale: merchandise added to the customer’s final selection for purchase at the point of sale; additional merchandise suggested by sales associate or visual presentation to compliment final merchandise selection of the consumer.

Adjacencies: floor layouts which position products used together next to each other Ambient Lighting: secondary lighting to set mood for store image and/or merchandise presentation.

Advertising: paid media or marketing tool with message controlled by the organization purchasing the mass media outlet Art (Design).

Elements: color, texture, proportion, line, shape.

Assortment Display: display composed of a collection of unrelated items found within a store; display with variety of merchandise or merchandise mix of a specific retailer.

Attention-Getting Devices: tool or mechanism in display that attracts the attention of the consumer; e.g., color, surprise or shock, humor, nostalgia, motion.

Awning: covering over a door or window that makes viewing of merchandise easier for the consumer or that provides protection from the climate, omits glare on the window for the viewer, or introduces a special event or advertising campaign for the season.

Back Wall: vista wall or architectural wall in the back of the department or store; it is one of the second most important selling areas in the store; it should be merchandised with current, trendy coordinated products that entice the consumer to browse from the front to the back of the department or store.

Balance: design principle used by visual merchandisers to create equality of weight and positioning of elements across the display for a unified composition; two types of balance include:

Formal or Symmetrical Balance: each side of display is a mirror image of the other side or elements of equal weight are equidistance on either side of the display; used to display expensive merchandise; career wear, formal wear, etc.

Informal or Asymmetrical Balance: either side of display appears to be of equal weight but elements are not replicas of one another; more interesting and more difficult to achieve than formal balance; used to display sportswear, active wear, etc.

Banner: communication tool usually made from fabric or treated paper designed with colorful graphics and created to attract the attention of the target consumer.

Brand: name, sign, symbol, logo, graphic, color combination, term, jingle, or any other concept or feature that identifies a company’s product or services and differentiates them from other companies’ products and services.

Brand Communications/Marketing Communications Division: a division or department of a brand company or manufacturer which is responsible for visual merchandising – trade, visual merchandising – retail, advertising, special events and promotions, publicity, etc.

Brand Image: characteristics, attributes, cues or personality that identify the brand or retailer and help to position the brand as compared to its competitors.

Chrome: shinny finish on fixtures used in retail store for presenting product categories, classifications, and grouping of merchandise.

Color: attribute or feature of product and store brand that consumer sees first when entering store; first characteristic that attracts the customer’s attention and the art element that motivates consumer to shop.

Cool Colors: colors that recede; blue, green, violet, blue-green.

Warm Colors: colors that advance; red, orange yellow, pink, rust, brown, peach.

Color Psychology: the study of the impact color has on the consumer’s emotions and perceptions of the visual presentation; therapeutic aspects color has on consumer; mood color establishes in mind of consumer.

Color Scheme: combination of various colors in product design and visual presentation.

Analogous or Adjacent: color scheme with colors located next to each other on the color wheel; e.g., yellow, yellow orange, orange, red orange.

Complementary: color scheme with combination of two colors directly opposite from each other on the color wheel; e.g., yellow, violet.

Double-Complementary: color scheme with combination of four colors or two colors plus their complements; e.g., green with red and blue with orange

Split-Complementary: color scheme with combination of three colors or a central color with the two colors on either side of its complement; e.g., blue, red orange and yellow orange.

Monochromatic: color scheme using one color in different values and intensities or the color range extending from the lightest tint to the deepest shade of the color: e.g., sky blue, marine blue, navy blue.

Neutral: color scheme of all white, all beige, all gray, all black, all brown.

Triadic: color scheme consisting of three colors equidistant from one another on the color wheel; e.g., red, blue, yellow.

Color Story: combination of colors used in coordinate grouping, seasonal line, or visual presentation; colors used to tie design concepts, and solids, prints, and pattern fabrics together in a grouping or seasonal line.

Colorway: assortment or combination of colors a brand company or manufacturer utilizes to design its seasonal line, product groupings, or related separates.

Color Wheel: graphic depicting the relationship of colors to one another.

Consumer Marketing Division: a division or department of a brand company or manufacturer which is responsible for design, development, merchandising, and often times sourcing a seasonal product line for the company.

Core or “Bread & Butter” Area: middle section or area of a store or department for presenting and housing volume merchandise such as basics, large assortments, coordinated groupings and related separates.

Demonstration Cube: blocks that may be covered with fabric, laminated, or finished wood used for a mannequin platform, display surface, etc.

Design Principles (Elements): include unity, harmony, balance, repetition, rhythm, emphasis, contrast.

Display: the act of dramatically or theatrically presenting merchandise categories in order to excite, stimulate, and encourage consumer motivation and interest for creating sales and increasing profit.

Display Calendar: a schedule of a store’s or department’s upcoming displays, usually planned a year in advance and based on store merchandise delivery dates, promotions, and seasonal holidays.

Display Case: a mechanism, fixture, or area for presenting merchandise; usually has glass top and sides for easy viewing of merchandise.

Display Plan: includes the who, what, where, why, and when of a merchandise presentation or display; includes a timetable or checklist for strategic points or calendar of dates for completion of all activities, an organizational chart of job responsibilities and personnel who will execute the activities for building the display, and a sketch or rendering (sometimes to scale) of the actual display.

Display Settings: background or type of setting for presenting merchandise or display.

Abstract Setting: background setting does not look like a realistic area or concept; the eye cannot decipher a concept but setting supports and reinforces the message and merchandise in the display; e.g., arrangement of lines and shapes in various spaces of the setting to provide a backdrop for merchandise.

Environmental Setting: all items in display are for sale or background becomes merchandise to sell; e.g., a bedroom display with furniture, home furnishings and textiles, and accessories for a bedroom.

Fantasy Setting: a setting created with expected or unexpected elements in unexpected places; a whimsical setting or an imaginative or fictitious setting for ordinary merchandise categories; e.g., chair and table on ceiling of display area.

Realistic Setting: an everyday life environment or recognizable area interpreted in the display; e.g., couple sitting at table in restaurant – display could feature apparel or fine China, crystal, and silver on table or all of the product classifications.

Semirealistic Setting: vignette setting or setting with recognizable product in a recognizable space but viewer must use imagination to complete the design idea.

Dominance: the element in the display that attracts the eye first and directs the viewer’s eye to other parts of the composition; emphasis of one element over other objects of the composition.

Dress Form: armless version of body shape (figure) that is utilized to present apparel, as if on actual physical body.

Emphasis: highlighting or calling attention to a particular item, usually the focal point, in a presentation.

Endcap Display: display featured at the end of fixtures; spaces with displays of complimentary merchandise positioned toward the aisle of entrance into an area in order to entice consumer to make add-on or impulse purchases.

Face out Fixture: arms (straight or slanted) on fixtures so that front of product is presented to viewer.

Fashion Image: the position of a store’s product in the fashion cycle or on the bell-shape curve of fashion; tool used in order to forecast the movement and direction of fashion for a particular trend, concept, or product.

Fixture: costumers, merchandisers, or other implements to hold and present merchandise or product categories

Floodlights: incandescent bulbs utilized to focus a wide beam of light on an area.

Floor Fixture: merchandise units used to hold and present merchandise in the store or department; e.g., rounders, quads, T-stands, multiple merchandisers.

Floor Plan: a flat sketch or drawing of the store or department floor space with wall areas, aisles, and fixture placement depicted.

Fluorescent Light: flat light with very little shadowing; low costs and efficient source of overall store lighting; provides no focus on merchandise texture or color.

Focal Point: the dominant element or the emphasized element within a display or merchandise presentation; central focus of the display from which the viewer’s eye may move in order to view other items in the display.

Four way Face out Fixture: four arm costumers or merchandisers used to hold and present merchandise or product categories: front view of four different product classifications or outfits can be shown simultaneously, with one being featured on each arm/prong.

Free-Flow or Maize Floor Plan: floor layout where fixtures are placed without a set pattern or set of aisles, however, traffic aisle is determined by placement of fixtures which are set in same direction or at same angle; fixtures are arranged in an informal pattern with nonlinear groupings.

General Lighting: an allover level of lighting or primary lighting.

Gondola: fixture or merchandiser with flat bottom and four straight sides used to merchandise product in aisles or high traffic areas.

Graphics: artwork, sketches, enlarged prints, photographs, and other types of art used to depict merchandise and/or to set the mood, create store ambience, décor and image.

Grid Floor Plan: floor layout where fixtures are placed in a linear pattern on the floor, creating horizontal and vertical aisles for traffic patterns throughout the store and/or department.

Hanger: an implement used for hanging garments.

Harmony: a design element creating a unified whole or unity in a display.

Hue: word used for the name of a color or as a synonym for color.

Integrated Marketing Communication Plan (IMC): retailer’s use or coordination of promotional tools of advertising, special events and promotions, visual merchandising, publicity, and fashion coordination and training to present a constant and consistent marketing strategy and message to the target consumer.

Institutional Display: display promoting the image of the store or promoting a cause supported by the store rather than promoting the store’s merchandise.

Intensity: the brightness or dullness of a color; purity and strength of color.

Intermediate Color: color that is results of mixing a primary and secondary color, using various amounts of each color.

Kiosk: fixture or freestanding, open-ended unit for housing and presenting merchandise; usually found in store aisles, main traffic paths, or open spaces for maximum visibility.

Layering: imposition or positioning of one garment on top of other garments; adds possibility of add-on sales and depth to display.

Ledge: an extension or shelf-like projection extending from the wall; it may hold displays or merchandise presentations.

Lifestyle: combination of how a customer lives, works and plays; a combination of activities, interests, occupations, hobbies, avocations, etc. of the consumer.

Lifestyle Presentation: a collection or assortment or various merchandise classifications presented in a setting where the customer will use the merchandise; merchandise depicting a particular lifestyle.

Lighting: device to call attention to display and merchandise presentation; device to build store image.

Line: direction; one element of a composition; line may be used as an attention-getter for the display.

Curve Line: an arc, circle or sphere; imparts grace, charm, femininity, softness, flow.

Diagonal Line: action line that suggests movement and excitement; designates action, forcefulness, strong and dynamic movement.

Horizontal Line: long, low, wide spreading line; imparts relaxed, peaceful, calm, quiet, tranquil atmosphere.

Vertical Line: straight elements joining floor to ceiling; symbolizes strength, height, pride, majesty, dignity, poise, balance, forcefulness, elegance, refinement.

Line-of-Goods Display: a display of one type of product classification shown in various colors and designs.

Logo: symbol, graphic, emblem, insignia denotes a company, product, service, etc.

Mannequin: replica of human form used to present clothing.

Marketing Mix: blend of components of product, price, place, promotion, people, positioning, presentation, packaging, processing, playback used in combination to build and present an idea, product, or service.

Market Segment Analysis: dividing a large, heterogeneous group of consumers into sub-segments or subgroups that are more homogeneous or that maintain similar values and product desires and needs

Marquee: canopy or awning over an entrance to store; large sign containing a listing of store names in a particular shopping center location.

Media Mix: combination of store’s usage of direct mail, Internet, magazines, newspapers, outdoor advertising, radio, television, etc.

Merchandise Islands: merchandise presentation near an entrance, escalator, stairway, or elevator that can be viewed from all sides; frequently feature impulse buys, low-price, easy-to-sell items or “pick-up” merchandise.

Merchandise Presentation: combination of storing, housing, presenting, displaying and promoting merchandise classifications while maximizing floor space in order to build optimum sales and profit potential.

Merchandising Policy: includes retailer’s merchandising plans and guidelines for selection of vendors, retail/vendor matrix, pricing policies, presentation and display policies, markdown policies and promotional endeavors, etc.

NADI: National Association of Display Industries; organization with members composed of visual merchandising material producers and distributors

Niche Marketing: targeting a specific market segment and offering unique products and services that the small group or sub-group needs, wants, and can buy.

Nostalgia: a remembrance of times, events, or products of the past that can be utilized to attract the consumer by stirring past emotions and memories.

One-Item Display: display or merchandise presentation of a single item.

Outpost: selling fixture or unit with merchandise from a department within the retail store but located in an area away from the department in which it is usually merchandised.

Pastel: a tint of a color or a full-value color to which white has been added, creating a lighter color of the original.

Planogram: sketches or drawings of the placement of merchandise on fixtures positioned on selling floor, walls, and in displays.

Platform: a riser; elevated cube; a raised area for displaying and merchandising.

POP: point-of-purchase display and/or signage for POP display.

POPAI: Point-of-Purchase Advertising Institute; international trade association of designers and producers of displays and fixtures, advertisers, and retailers.

Pop-Up Shop: retail area set up for a limited amount of time.

Primary Colors: three colors from which all other colors are composed; red, blue, yellow.

Promotional Display: display featuring concept, trend or product; display may be composed of one item, line-of-goods, related separates or concepts, or a variety of product that are regular or special priced goods.

Promotional Mix: includes combinations of advertising, special events and promotions, visual merchandising and display, publicity, and fashion coordination and training vehicles that a business uses in order to communicate with its target consumer about store and product offerings.

Prop: article, object, or item used to reinforce a display theme, merchandise concept or visual setting.

Proportion: design or art element illustrating the proper size relationships between objects and spaces; relationships of sizes, scales, and weights of elements between each other and the entire composition of a display.

Publicity: is “free” media exposure that cannot be controlled by a firm or business; it can be both positive and negative for the retailer; message is not paid for, therefore companies attempt to monitor and manage all publicity about their store and/or product offerings.

Psychographics: market research that analyzes the impact of consumers’ activities, interests, opinions, values, and mores on the buying and purchasing patterns of the consumers.

Racetrack Floor Plan: floor layout where traffic aisles are laid out on right and left of circular, rectangular, or oval racetrack floor layout.

Related Merchandise Display: display of items that have same end use; items may be related or share same color, theme, trend, or product classification.

Repetition: design principle that utilizes the reiteration of an idea or repeating the idea over and over again in the same display; e.g., same garment, same color, same line, same shape, same form.

Retail Services Division: the division in the brand company or manufacturer that has the responsibilities of providing customer services for the retail store, organizing account management for company’s account executives and sales representatives, analyzing scanner data of the retailer’s inventory and sales realized for the branded company’s product, and overseeing retail service coordination between the brand company and retail client.

Rhythm: principle of design that promotes movement of the eye from the dominant object to subordinate objects, from the major items to accessories; that promotes movement of the eye from element to element, from background to foreground, and from side to side of the display.

Riser: display unit used to elevate merchandise in the display; platform or cube.

Sales Promotion (Event): event or happening that communicates the store’s image and product offering, which may or may not be reduced price merchandise, to the target consumer; vendor demonstrations, contests, fashion events, vendor sponsored events featuring GWP and PWP.

Sales Promotion Division: in the retail store, the division that has the responsibilities of coordinating and creating advertising, visual merchandising, special events and promotions, fashion coordination and publicity in order to market the retail store and its products and services.

Scale: a size of item in relation to size of other items in a display; a proportional representation of an object or size of object in proportion to the size of the actual object Secondary Colors: combination of mixing pairs of primary colors; e.g., yellow and blue becomes green.

Shade: color that is darkened by adding gray or black to the color, creating a deeper color.

Shadow: in lighting, a part of an area that is darker as compared to the other areas of the display, merchandise presentation, or store.

Shadow Box: small, elevated window box of glass or part glass for displaying expensive or special merchandise.

Shop Concept: small area of store where similar types or the same brand of various product classifications are merchandised and displayed; small area in store housing specific brand in order to portray a lifestyle setting or to create the brand image for a particular brand company or designer.

Sightline: when standing in an aisle or in a shop or department, the area the consumer can view from the front aisle when looking toward the back of the shop or department; from front aisle viewing the back and side walls and throughout the department; created by placement of aisles, walls, and fixtures.

Sign: graphic or signage on outside of store building or inside store designating a department or area within a store; it imparts store image through graphics, color, letter type and font, scale and materials.

Signage: system of signs within a store to designate location, information, and department placement.

Store Attributes: cues or elements that build store image, assisting the target consumer to form a mental image or impression for what the store stands; elements include history of the store; physical cues such as exterior and interior décor; customer services, including type and quantity; store personnel; merchandising and pricing policies; channel of distribution and location of store; marketing and promotional mix.

Store Image: mental perception the consumer perceives of store’s personality; character or unique personality store represents; opinions consumer form of store based on policies and activities of the retailer.

Store Planner: designer, architect, or visual merchandiser who plans spaces, coloring, lighting, store exterior/interior, etc.

Target Consumer (Market): sub-segment of a larger homogeneous market for whom the store can provide the best value offering while meeting the needs and wants of the consumer; a segment of the population or consumers who have similar needs and wants and whom the retailer is capable of providing the products or service offerings to meet those needs and wants.

Tertiary Colors: combination of mixing primary colors with secondary colors to form a new color.

Texture: a design or art element that describes the way a surface feels or the “hand” of the item; texture affects color of merchandise or is the absorption or reflection of light on a rough or shinny surface.

Theme: unifying concept or commonality that ties the display and/or line of merchandise together; e.g., Southwest theme Tint: color that is formed by adding white to a color, creating a lighter variation of the color.

Tone: the mood set by the store image or theme of merchandise presentation or display.

Trademark: word, design, graphic, symbol that designates a particular company’s product.

Tradeshow: the location or mart building where a brand company or manufacturer presents its line-of merchandise to its client, the retailer; usually these shows are held in large exhibit halls and all vendors with like product exhibit at a designated time or week.

Trading Area: the geographic area from which the store targets its consumers.

Trends: direction and movement of major ideas, themes, product or design concepts.

Unity: in a display, the organization or grouping of elements into a pleasing, harmonious whole.

Value: the lightness or darkness of a color.

Variety Display: display composed of unrelated items found in a store.

Vignette: display with a partial version of a realistic setting.

Vista (Top) Wall: the back walls of a store or department; the second most important selling space found in a floor layout; second area in sightline when consumer enters store or department.

Visual Merchandising: combination of store design, merchandise presentation, and display in order to promote sales and increase profit margins.

Visual Merchandising Department: in the retail store, the department in the Sales Promotion Division responsible for store environment, merchandise presentation, and display.

Visual Merchandising – Retail Department: department in a brand company responsible for interfacing with the brand company’s client or the retail store buyer, merchandiser, and/or Sales Promotion Division of the retailer; the department plans, develops, and executes the in-store account and category specific strategies such as developing shop concepts, outposts and shop presentations.

Visual Merchandising – Trade Department: department in a brand company responsible for development and execution of trade shows and showrooms or exhibit marketing strategies to position products, drive brand awareness, and influence a positive corporate image.

Waterfalls: fixtures with angled arms cascading off the wall or on a T-stand; fixtures usually have knobs, hooks, or notches to keep hanger holding the merchandise in position.

Windows-on-the-Aisle: area, frequently on an aisle, at front of store or department which the consumer views first when entering the store or department; merchandise is usually the most exquisite or expensive products, new arrivals, and/or the most trendy merchandise carried in the store or department.

Saturday, September 3, 2022

Interview Question for Garment Quality Inspection/ Quality Assurance/ Buying Quality Inspector

An interview is a structured conversation where one participant asks questions, and the other provides answers. In common parlance, the word "interview" refers to a one-on-one conversation between an interviewer and an interviewee.

 

Interview Question and Answer for Apparel Quality Inspector & Quality Assurance:



The below interview question and answers are very important to get garments QI/ QA/ buying QA  job.

 

1. What is the grainline? 

Answer: Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called a grain line. When pattern pieces are laid down during marker making over the cloth, the grainline should be parallel to the warp if the fabric is woven and wales in the case of knitted fabric. Only the exception is seen for bias cut.

 

2. What is the handle? 

Answer: It is a characteristic of fabrics that are perceived by touching, squeezing, or rubbing them.

 

3. What is hip? 

Answer: It is a specified level down from the waist seam and garment closed measure straight across the garment, from one edge to the other.

 

4. What is the waist? 

Answer: Regular waistband or elastic relaxed, garment closed and with front and back waistband edges even at the top, measure across the middle of waistband or along with elastic relaxed from one edge to other.

 

5. What is sleeve length? 

Answer: It is the measurement from the center back neck seam or edges straight across to shoulder or armhole point, along sleeves fold line down to the bottom edge of the sleeve opening.

 

6. What is the sleeve inseam? 

Answer: The measurement from under armhole seam to the bottom edge of sleeve opening (cuff included) with vent closed (if applicable).

 

7. What is pleat? 

Answer: It is used to increase the fullness of the garments. It is generally made by folding the fabric. Dart and pleat are used in the back part of the Men’s shirt usually.

 

8. What is the inseam length? 

Answer: Along the inside seam of the leg, the measurement from the crotch seam down to the bottom edge of the leg opening. Rib or elastic bands included in this measurement.

 

9. What is drape? 

Answer: It is a character of fabric that indicates flexibility and suppleness of fabric.

 

10. What is the durable press (DP)? 

Answer: The name was given to a special finish that provides the garments with shape retention, durable pleats and pressed creases, durably smooth seams, and wrinkle resistance during use and after laundering or dry cleaning. The durable press also can be added to the stretch fabrics to produce garments that stretch yet hold their shape and their creases.

 

11. What is the double-faced fabric

Answer: Cloth with both ends similar is termed as double-faced fabric.

 

12. What is a basic block? 

Answer: Assimilating of diagram of net dimension on papers each and individual part without any allowance which is called a pattern and it is called also basic block.

 

13. What is crease? 

Answer: The crease is any kind of folding in clothes.

 

14. What is color bleeding? 

Answer: It is the pigment or dye or color of a cloth that is partially gone into the water if such colored cloth is soaked in water or solvent. Pigment dye comes out from one place to another and is a stuck place nearby suck characteristics are called color bleeding.

 

15. What is crocking? 

Answer: Crocking is the act of taking out color from the dry and wet cloth by rubbing or scouring.

 

16. What is back length or HPS? 

Answer: HPS stands for the high point of the shoulder. Normally it is known as the back length which is measured from the high point of the shoulder down to the bottom edge of the garment.

 

17. What is the back rise? 

Answer: It is the measure from crotch intersection point, along center back seam following curve up to waistband top edge.

 

18. What is CBN? 

Answer: CBN stands for center back neck. It is the measure from the center back neck seam or edges down to the bottom edge of a garment.

 

19. What is blind stitch? 

Answer: It is a special type of stitch that cannot see from the face side of the fabric but can easily see from the backside.

 

20. What is a backstitch? 

Answer: It is one kind of hand stitch for sewing the apparel, which could also do by using a sewing machine.

 

21. What is CF Line? 

Answer: The straight line bottom to up vertically along the middle point of the body in front of a shirt or jacket.

 

22. What is bar tack? 

Answer: Re-stitching over a very short length to give and increase the area of high load-bearing strength (Example: belt loops and pocket corners are bar-tacked).

 

23. What is back tacking? 

Answer: Approximately 1cm or small stitch backward at the beginning and finishing of sewing, which is used securing of the sewn end so that the thread could not be loosed easily.

 

24. What is allowance? 

Answer: When the garment is made by adding extra dimension with the net dimension of the garment is called allowance.

 

25. What is a back rise?

 Answer: The distance from the crotch back waistline is called back rise.

 

26. What is across back? 

Answer: It is the measure of straight across the back of garment at the midpoint of armhole seam or edge from one side to other.

How to Test Fabric Sewability in Apparel Industry

Introduction:

Before manufacturing any garment product in ready made garment industry, fabric should be tested whether it is perfect or not for sewing. In fabric sew ability assessment method, some tests should be followed which are mentioned in this article.




Fabric Sew ability Assessment Method Followed in Garment Industry:


To assess the sew ability of fabric, it is necessary to do the following tests:
  1. Seam strength,
  2. Seam puckering,
  3. Seam slippage,
  4. Resistance to fraying,
  5. Lubricant content.
All the above tests have explained in the below:

1. Seam strength:

The proposed end use and properties of the fabric are considered when sewing thread type, stitch type and sewing conditions are determined. The seam strength test is done to ensure that the necessary values for sew ability have been achieved.

2. Seam puckering:

Sample fabric is sewn in both warp and weft directions as per pre-selected sewing conditions. Seam puckering due to the structural jamming is observed and recorded. Densely woven fabrics frequently contribute to this type of defect. it is so important to test the sew ability of fabric.

3. Seam slippage:

Seam slippage of specimen seams sewn in both warp and weft directions are evaluated as per standard test method for fabric sew ability, so that the slippage does not exceed 5mm.

4. Resistance to fraying:

The sample fabric is subjected to a domestic wash cycle. After that, fabric fraying from the edge in both warp and weft direction is measured to ensure that fraying does not exceed 3mm.

5. Lubricant content:

The percentage of lubricant present in a fabric is determined by treating the fabric with a suitable solvent. To facilitate trouble free sewing, lubricant content in a fabric should be between 0.5 to 1% depending on fabric type, construction and lubricant type etc. if the lubricant content in a fabric is too low than the required amount, then fabric damaged by needle or frictional heat in needle would obviously result. It is also very important test for fabric sew ability assessment.
Fabrics passing all the above mentioned tests for fabric sew ability assessment are assumed to be suitable for making-up. Failure in any of the mentioned test, attention should be drawn to the fabric manufacturer, so that they could take corrective measures before marketing their products.

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Friday, September 2, 2022

Main Objects of Fabric Spreading

Introduction:

Fabric spreading is one of the most important processes in readymade garments sector, by which fabric plies are spread in order to get required length and width as per marker dimension. If fabric spreading is perfect then fabric wastage will be decreased, which ultimately helps to achieve higher profit from a garment export order. As its importance in garments manufacturing sector, today I will present here some key purposes or objects of fabric spreading.
Fabric Spreading in Garments Industry
Fabric Spreading in Garments Industry

Definition of Fabric Spreading:

Fabric spreading means the smooth lying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of definite length. It is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of fabric lying. Marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layers. It should be noted here that, during fabric spreading, number of the plies should be not more than three hundreds, where the number of lay depends on the height of the fabric and thickness of the fabric.

Purpose of Fabric Spreading:

  1. It helps to place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker.
  2. It helps to cut the fabrics in bulk quantity at the same time.
  3. It helps in saving fabric cutting time for bulk garments production.
  4. During cutting the fabric, it helps to use multi garments marker at the same time.
  5. It helps in cutting many fabric plies at the same time.
  6. It helps to make every fabric ply plain and flat.
Speech from the writer:If you read this article with full concentration then you can answer the below questions in the interview:
  1. What do you mean by fabric spreading?
  2. Point out various purposes of fabric spreading.
  3. Mention the significance of fabric spreading in apparel manufacturing sector.

Saturday, May 14, 2022

Merchandising Department Standard Operating Procedure

 



No need to mention that apparel merchandising is one of the primary and essential activities in apparel manufacturing and apparel export business. Hence garment manufacturers set up merchandising department. Factories hire merchandisers to handle internal and external merchandising activities.

In this post I will be talking about standard procedures (SOPs) of the merchandising department in readymade garment production. Sometimes it is assumed that preparing SOP is a complex task and need an expert to draft an SOP and need thorough analysis and approval before implementation the in the system. This is true but partially. If everyone thinks that way, nobody would come forward and prepare SOPs for their factory departments and activities.


These SOPs are easier to understand and apply in the factory. These SOPs were made for one small-size garment export house.

SOPs are shown for the following activities of merchandising department:

  1. Preparation of bill of material (BOM)
  2. Time & Action Calendar
  3. Approval of Samples, fabric and trims
  4. Production File
  5. PP Meeting


Task-1: BOM Preparation

 Title: Preparation of bill of material (BOM)

Revision: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandisers

Standard operating procedure

  1. BOM to be prepared for all orders within two working days after receiving PO from buyer 
  2. BOM format to use as provided to merchandising department (in a spreadsheet) 
  3. Take approval on fabric consumption and trims consumption from concerned person 
  4. Add rate for all items and total amount in the BOM (if data is available) 
  5. After making BOM, it should be forwarded to sourcing department (fabric and trims store) and PPC department 
  6. If required, correction on BOM to be made by 1 day
  7. Fabric and trim store to be provided with final bill of material 


Task-2: TNA Calendar preparation and circulation

 Title: Preparation of Time and Action Calendar

Revision: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandisers

Standard operating procedure

  1. Initiate TNA Calendar preparation after receiving order confirmation 
  2. First TNA Calendar to be submitted after one day of order receiving 
  3. Analyze style and identify processes to be done for the style 
  4. Discuss with PPC department about production process capacity 
  5. Prepare TNA Calendar based on process capacity and order quantity 
  6. Mail TNA Calendar to Management, PPC department, Store and QA 
  7. Update TNA Calendar daily basis and enter actual date of completion of a particular task 
  8. Initial Plan date should not be modified 
  9. Modify TNA Calendar if required and circulate modified TNA Calendar with concerned department.


Task-3: Production files preparation

 Title: Preparation of Production files

 Revision: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandisers

Standard Operating Procedure
1. Prepare production file prior to PP Meeting
2. Cover page of the production file to mark as

  • Style #, Buyer name
  • Order quantity, 
  • PP Meeting Date 
  • Ex-factory date 
  • Merchant’s Name who is handling particular account 

3. A Production file must include following items

  • Production file check list 
  • Apparel Tech pack 
  • Purchase Order (PO) 
  • Approved Fabric Swatches (all color ways) 
  • Approved Trim card 
  • Approved print and Embroidery design for color and artwork 
  • PP comments 
  • Buyer’s comment on samples, swatches and approvals 
  • Special instruction for line supervisor/QA 
  • Approved production pattern 
  • PP Meeting comments (Minutes of the meeting) 
  • Copy of TNA Calendar (style wise) 
  • Packing Specification 

4. Production file to be handed over to Production Team and Quality Team at the time of PP meeting
5. Number of production files to be made to be decided by internal team
6. T&A calendar to be reviewed at the time of PP Meeting and if required re-planning to be done
7. Responsibility of each task (process) to be discussed


Task-4: Approval of Bulk fabric

 Title: Bulk fabric approval process  

Version: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandisers

Standard Operating Procedure

  1. Receive fabric swatch card (3 sets) from fabric store on receiving of bulk fabric. ( prior to PP meeting) 
  2. Merchandiser need to provide approvals to each fabric for Fabric quality, Shrinkage and spirality and Fabric Shade band 
  3. In case bulk fabric approval to be taken from buyer/buying house, merchant should do sample submission and follow up for the approval   
  4. One swatch card to be given to Store, One for production file and one for merchandiser 
  5. For rejected or Hold Fabric, decision to be taken by Merchant 


Task-5: Approval of BulkTrims

 Title: Bulk trim approval process

Version: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandisers

Standard Operating Procedure

  1. Receive Trim card (3 sets) from trim store on receiving of bulk trims (prior to PP Meeting). 
  2. Merchant need to provide approvals to each fabric for  - (a) Trims quality, (b) Shrinkage and color fastness and (c) Shade variation (DTM tapes, buttons) 
  3. One Trim card to be given to Store, One for production file and one for merchandiser 

 

Task-6: Conducting PP Meeting

 Title: Conducting Pre-production meeting  

Version: Original
Prepared on: 12/10/2021
Approved by: Salahuddin
Responsibility: Merchandiser

Standard Operating Procedure

1. Prior to PP Meeting prepare production file
2. Prior to PP meeting take approval on PP sample (sealed sample)
3. Intimate PP Meeting date one day in advance to all concerned department heads/personnel
4. PP Meeting to be attained by

  • Merchandiser 
  • Sampling team 
  • Fabric and Trim store, fabric checker 
  • Cutting team 
  • Production team 
  • PPC 
  • Quality Assurance 
  • Finishing and Packaging team 

5. Minute of the meeting (MOM) to be prepared by QA (or any other assigned person) and to be signed by all participants
6. Copy of the MOM to be filed in the production file
7. Revisit production planning of the style (order) and do necessary modification of dates and processes if required
8. Responsible person for each task to be assigned in Style planning sheet

Reference: pre-production activity check list